Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/08/10
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Hi On 10-Aug-05, at PM 03:35, Peter Werner wrote: > > - Exposure was often off. At the small apertures I had to use, the TTL > exposure meter of the 20D was no longer reliable, I got a lot of under- > and overexposed pictures. Of course, you could make a test shot, look > at > the histogram and then take more shots with different settings: > Complicated, time-consuming and very frustrating. In the meantime, the > bee that I was trying to capture had flown away. Well, it's not the 20D's fault that you couldn't capture that bee - if you have used Canon's AF macro lenses, you probably would have no metering problems :) As for the metering problem, Canon's chuck westfall had this to say, which you might find it useful in your work.... (reproduced from this link: http://www.digitaljournalist.org/issue0508/westfall.html ) "The EOS 20D focusing screen is optimized for superior brightness at moderate apertures from about f/3.5 and smaller, compared to conventional ground glass designs. This makes the viewfinder image brighter and easier to focus manually at those moderate apertures, but the trade-off is that it passes disproportionately more light to the metering system. When a Canon EF lens is mounted to an EOS camera, a variable exposure compensation factor (a program curve, not just a fixed compensation factor) for this phenomenon is fed through the system in order to provide correct metering for all apertures. However, when using a non-coupled manual diaphragm lens as you describe, no such communication takes place, so the responsibility for exposure compensation reverts to you. It's unnecessary to use an external meter. Instead, you can take a series of test shots at the working aperture(s) you plan to use, then analyze the test photos to determine the most desirable exposure compensation factor for each aperture. The 20D's auto exposure bracketing (AEB) function speeds up the process of taking the test photos, and you can use the Info palette in Photoshop to determine the most accurate exposure. If you can standardize on one or two particular apertures you plan to use (for maximum sharpness, desired depth of field, etc.), it will simplify the calibration process by eliminating the need for tests at other apertures." > - Most disturbing of all: I did not like the color rendition of the > Canon. The Panasonic FZ20 colors where much better. The Canon colors > seemed harsh and unnatural. The colors I got with the same lenses on > film where much more to my liking. Some might argue that you could > correct this in Photoshop. It took me sometimes hours of trying but the > results did not satisfy me. You can see examples of the problem on > http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BflF I read that thread - is it possible that the sparkles are supposed to be there, as what other posters suggested? But I'm glad for you that you have found the right tool for your needs - that's the most important. For my needs, the sample images of the DMR so far have seem pretty noisy at ISO 400 and up (and it doesn't do 1600?), and for those shooting conditions, I'm finding my 20D to be simply amazing and unbeatable for its value! ---------- David Teo "Red Dawn" Boon Hwee david@5stonesphoto.com http://www.5stonesphoto.com