Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2007/09/16

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Subject: [Leica] technical question
From: henningw at archiphoto.com (Henning Wulff)
Date: Sun Sep 16 22:29:38 2007
References: <C7DA229A-C880-4B9D-857B-B9385BC37E68@pandora.be> <9b678e0709161856r73d9168asccecd3a002011c34@mail.gmail.com>

Don, if you are working in this macro range you do _NOT_ want a 200mm 
lens. Just work out the bellows extension. You're beyond arms length 
from camera to subject. Also, the long lenses are not corrected for 
these reproduction ranges. You want something 80mm or under; probably 
something around 50mm is best. I would use my 50mm Photar. If you are 
imaging something 5mm square, the lens is close to your subject 
anyway, so at least try to get something not too cumbersome, and of 
good optical quality.

I really like my 200mm Micro-Nikkor, but it does not do well in this 
sort of work, and neither do the 105's. A 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor 
(without floating elements) would do well, if reversed, as would 
other macro lenses of similar types. Stay away from macro lenses with 
floating elements, because they are disasters on bellows or extension 
tubes. They are computed for use in normal, direct-on-camera 
applications. They work better with achromatic close-up attachments 
and teleconverters than with extension tubes or bellows.

Enlarging lenses can do well, but look for 80mm or shorter, and best 
reversed. The slower, symmetric types generally do better. A 50mm f/4 
usually does better in this situation than a 50mm f/2.8, but not 
always. A reversed 50mm Focotar would be quite good.




At 8:56 PM -0500 9/16/07, Don Dory wrote:
>Philippe,
>If you have access to a bellows system then that and a 105 to 200mm
>enlarging lens will get it for you if you can get more than 200mm of
>extension.  The 200mm macro lens will work assuming is will go to 1:1.  Then
>add another 200mm of extension to get to 2:1 magnification ratio.  Lighting
>by TTL flash will make your life much easier as it will prevent a lot of
>vibration induced loss of sharpness.  Try to use a ring light and if you
>need to have something other than a 1:1 light ratio then use some ND film
>like a lot of Rosco gels(theatrical supply houses) on one side of the ring.
>If you have access to one then a focusing stage to fine tune focus once you
>have the magnification ration set will help immensely.  Try to avoid an
>aperture smaller than F8 as diffraction effects at the magnification you
>will be using will kill the ability to enlarge to the size you desire.
>
>Summary:
>Really steady tripod and an immense head so that there is no camera
>movement.  Ideally a camera stand from a studio originally using 4X5 cameras
>Focusing stage to fine tune focus.
>At least a 100mm macro lens, preferably 200mm so there is room to light.
>Enough extension to get over 2:1 magnification ratio.
>TTL lights or a good ringlight.  Might need some polarizing film if your
>subject is glossy to kill reflections.
>90 degree finder so you can see your subject with comfort
>Learn how to lock your mirror up and wait a couple of seconds.
>Cable release or other remote; at the least the selftimer.
>
>As an alternative to all the massive supports use the shutter at max synch
>speed so that no ambient light exposes your sensor or film.  You will still
>need a tripod, focusing stage, and angle finder to get the subject in
>perfect focus as your DOF will be nil.
>
>If you are using non-Leica equipment both Canon and Nikon make very good
>multiple flash TTL systems that make the exposure very easy; all you need is
>the proper understanding of how you want to light the object.  Just use
>normal flash exposure compensation to keep your subject the proper density
>as the TTL system will make your subject 18% gray.
>On 9/16/07, Philippe Orlent <philippe.orlent@pandora.be> wrote:
>>
>>  Does anybody have experience with extreme close-up work?
>>
>>  I looking for a practical solution to shoot (non detachable) 0,2 by
>>  0,2 inch surfaces in such a way that they can be blown up to 40 by 40
>>  inch prints.
>>  Meaning shot out of hand or on a simple tripot setting.
>>  I guess that would include some kind of a flash system.
>>
>>  What kind of lens? Would a 200mm macro lens be sufficient?
>>  What kind of flash system (ring or similar?)
>>
>>  I have no experience with macro, nor with this kind of flashes, so
>>  I'm a bit ignorant about this.
>>
>>  Thanks in advance,
>>  Philippe
>>
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  Leica Users Group.
>>  See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information
>>
>
>
>
>--
>Don
>don.dory@gmail.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>Leica Users Group.
>See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information

-- 
    *            Henning J. Wulff
   /|\      Wulff Photography & Design
  /###\   mailto:henningw@archiphoto.com
  |[ ]|     http://www.archiphoto.com

In reply to: Message from philippe.orlent at pandora.be (Philippe Orlent) ([Leica] technical question)
Message from don.dory at gmail.com (Don Dory) ([Leica] technical question)