Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2007/06/14
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I've just wasted another evening and about $15 worth of ink dealing with a print head Clog From Hell. My Epson 1280 printer with MIS Ultratone 2 grayscale inks produces beautiful B&W prints--when it works. But I've just about had it with the periodic clogs, banding and mysterious goings-on. I just had to flush out my print heads with a special cleaning cartridge, put cleaning fluid on the pad that the heads rest on, and hope that that clears it. Part of the problem is using the pigmented MIS inks on a printer designed for dye ink. There are other issues. My workflow with the Paul Roarke curves worked beautifully for several years, then stopped working when I changed to a new cartridge, and hasn't worked since. Fortunately, the "easy way" method still works, so I've been using that. But why this happened has never been explained. I have two printers. I used the 1280 for color for a while, then dedicated it to B&W. I got an Epson R200 for a song, and dedicated that to color. Neither printer ever gave me WYSIWYG color. The Epson-provided profiles (I've downloaded several) don't work with Epson's own papers. Always much too dark. I've had to resort to manually creating curves that work with some slider settings I downloaded from the Norman Koren site. All in all, it's feels like time to think about another printer. Here are my requirements: 1. I do a lot of B&W, so my printer must print B&W well. A later Epson printer (designed for pigmented ink) with either its own grayscale inks or MIS would be OK. But I'm not wedded to Epson if another company has a better solution. 2. I just want the printer to work. If I send it a profiled grayscale file, and tell it to print grayscale, it should produce a print that looks like what I see on my profiled monitor. Ditto color. I understand that perfection requires customization. But I don't want to have to spend weeks tweaking curves and profiles just for decent basic performance. 3. A printer wider than letter-size is nice, but it's not an absolute requirement. I rarely print bigger than 8.5 x 11. If the best printer for me has a letter-sized carriage, I can always outsource the few big prints I do per year. On the other hand, if a bigger printer means bigger cartridges that don't need changing as often, that might be better. Cost of consumables matters, too. 4. The high-end, $1000-plus printers are really not an option. I don't print enough to justify them, just as I didn't print enough to justify cartridge refilling or a continuous flow system. So we're talking a $100 - $800-ish printer. I have heard that many people get good results with MIS inks and the Epson R200 or R300. If that's a good way to go, I could always revert back to color with the 1280 and convert the R200 to B&W. But if I'm just going to get more clogs, forget it, I might as well try something else. Advice welcome! --Peter