Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2009/03/26
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I agree with Henning. The filters (and coding) increase quality and reduce post processing. You can, however, achieve decent, good quality work without. I started with one coded lens, 50 lux asph, and filter. That one filter would move to 28 cron and 35 lux asph when I changed lenses (workable yet not fun). Once I had filters for all four main lenses (75 lux being the fourth) and could leave them on - it became a bit simpler and more pleasurable. Getting the 28 cron coded improved the cyan corner issues. Only the 35 lux asph remains to be coded - it doesn't have major corner issues - but when budget allows - I'll have it coded. The 75 lux probably will never get coded. I'm always quite amazed by the M8 files with the 65 and 135 elmars something about these ancient configurations seem to allow them to work quite well without coding or filters Regards, George Lottermoser george at imagist.com http://www.imagist.com http://www.imagist.com/blog http://www.linkedin.com/in/imagist On Mar 26, 2009, at 12:14 AM, Henning Wulff wrote: >> I'm sure you'll hear from a lot of people that IR cut filters >> aren't really necessary. > > Unfortunately, for the best quality they are. Even outdoors on > sunny days they are as IR reflection off leaves is quite intense > and makes the colours murky. The only time that the IR filters are > not necessary is when there is no IR radiation, as on very overcast > days or under bad flourescents. The 'synthetic clothing' thing is a > bit of a red herring, pun unintended. You'll find black cotton and > black wool, black cars and black furniture that all gets various > funky magenta hues. It can be subdued with clever Photoshop work, > but not eradicated, and it doesn't solve the following problem. > > IR also causes some degradation of sharpness, as the IR doesn't > focus at the same plane as the visible light. This will generally > be more noticeable with older lens designs. > > So - best plan on getting IR filters at some time. I assume the 35 > Summilux is the non-ASPH that uses the series 7 filters? If so, and > if your 90 Summicron is an older one that uses 48mm filters, or > somewhat later that uses 49mm filters, you're in luck, as the 48 or > 49mm filters can be reversed in the hood of the Summilux where the > series 7 filters reside. Then get a step down ring from 48 (or 49) > to 39 and you can use the filter on the 50 Summicron and the 21CV > as well. Switching lenses (and filters) can be a pain, though. > > The 21CV should be coded, as should all lenses below 35mm. Best is > to either get an adapter ring (Leica thread to M bayonet) from John > Milich which has the pits in the correct locations, or buy a 'type > 2' Cosina adapter from cameraquest and send it to John Milich to > get the pits engraved. Then just paint in the dots to code the lens > as a 21 Elmarit. Works great; no cyan corners and even illumination. > > Your other lenses don't need to get coded as the cyan corners are > barely noticeable (35mm lens) to non-existent (50 and 90mm). > > That leaves the Nocti. You can try to live without a filter for a > while, and you can compare the results from the Summicron to see if > it's worth it. I eventually did get a filter for it. > > So, budget about $200 for filter, adapter rings and John Milich, > and you should be set to start. > > A short term solution for the 21 is the Cornerfix program, but it's > a bit of a pain and the quality can drop a bit erratically. > > If you have any further questions, fell free to ask. > > Regards, > > Henning > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information