[Leica] Using the Fuji X Pro-1

[bd at bdcolenphoto.com (B. D. Colen)]

I'd only disagree with two things, Dick - First, I have yet to have the
camera turn on or off accidentally - no problems with that on/off switch.
The other is RAW processing. I don't think the Adobe DNG Converter, or
anything else, is getting it right yet. If you blow the converted DNGS up
to 100% you can see a weird pattern - it look as thought it might be the
sensor pattern - over the image. Quite bizarre -to the point where I am
shooting JPGS waiting for a fix. Otherwise, I love it.

On 6/26/12 11:29 AM, "Richard Taylor" <r.s.taylor at comcast.net> wrote:

>I've had my X Pro-1 for two weeks now and in thought you might be
>interested in my impressions of the camera.  There are many images on
>line testifying to its excellent image quality at low and high ISO so I'm
>not going to add more--at least for now.  What they show is all true,
>though, in my experience.
>
>If you've been following the discussions about the camera, not all of
>this will be new to you.
>
>In a nutshell, it is the most M-like digital camera I've yet run across.
>The aperture dial is on the lens where it belongs, ditto for the shutter
>speed dial and exposure correction dials on the body, and you can set the
>Fn button to bring up ISO settings, so everything you're likely to need
>in routine shooting is right out in the open.  The body is just a bit
>smaller than the M9 and weighs about half as much.
>
>With the Fujinon lenses, focus is just like the Leica, except it's
>automatic.  Aim the focus rectangle in the OVF at the point you want in
>focus, half press the shutter, watch the frame lines jump into place,
>reframe if necessary and shoot.  Perfect!  When you're close in you've
>got to use the lower right focus rectangle to correct for parallax, but
>otherwise the procedure is the same.  Focus speed is more than fast
>enough, but nowhere near as fast as my Panasonic GX-1.
>
>If you place the focus rectangle correctly, the focus will be spot-on.
>
>OTH, the camera, despite the inclusion of a "Multi-Spot" mode, really
>doesn't have one as far as I've can tell.  If you put it in Multi-Spot,
>it will choose the single most contrasty spot in the frame to focus on,
>whether it's your subject's eye or a lightbulb in the far corner of the
>frame.  I don't see why this method would work under any circumstances,
>but maybe one of you can enlighten me.
>
>The only way you can shoot from the hip is to lock focus on an
>appropriate middle distance and stop way down, again just as you would do
>with an M. 
>
>I can see the frames lines and data in the OVF with my regular glasses
>on.  If I'm wearing polarizing sunglasses and holding the camera
>horizontally, though, I can't either in the OVF or anything at all in the
>EVF.   With the LCD on the camera back it's the other way around.  It's
>readable with the camera horizontal, but not vertical.
>
>Opinions can differ on this of course, but for my purposes LR 4 does a
>better job of processing the RAW files than the Fuji RAW converter does.
>There is less blotchy chroma noise and sharpness is almost as good.  OTH,
>converting the RAW files to DNG and importing them into LR seems to take
>forever, maybe 3-4 times as long as it takes to import files from my
>D300.  
>
>The only thing about the camera that drives me nuts is the power switch.
>Whoever designed it needs to go in for some remedial work on detent
>design.  Even the slightest brush of the hand or the side of a camera
>bags turns the camera on.   Bad, bad, bad.
>
>Regards, 
>
>Dick
>
>
>
>
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