[Leica] BESSA R3A or M7 (now metering)

[tedgrant at shaw.ca (Ted Grant)]

Michael Waldron suggested:
>>> This is a complex topic, but I learned a lot from the book and recommend 
>>> it, even if you have no interest in zone system type work.<<<<,,

Michael mon ami,
Any mention of zone system sends shivers up my back! Because the only zone 
I've ever been concerned with is the de-militarized zone I've been near! ;-)

And given I'm an old dog now changing metering methods would only screw-me 
up more than I am. :-) Besides for 55 years I've used the KISS system. :-) 
Through the camera if possible, incident if necessary.

However an excellent book suggestion by the way.  ""Beyond the Zone system"

ted



" <MichaelW@CadoganManagement.com>
To: "Leica-Users (E-mail)" <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Leica] BESSA R3A or M7 (now metering)


> Regarding incident/reflective metering, I use both a spot meter and an 
> incident one.  Both take work to learn how to use and using both at once 
> is an illuminating experience.  The spot gives you the subject range and 
> if it is bigger than the film can handle, makes you think about what to 
> lose -- shadow or highlight.  The incident woks well because you can see 
> full sun if you point it at the sun, or shadow if you stand between the 
> sun and meter and cast your own shadow on it.  That typically works very 
> well for me.
>
> The best text on metering I have read is in the book which discusses in 
> depth how to meter.  It notes that reflective surfaces basically can have 
> 5 stops of difference from white to black (not counting specular 
> highlights, mirrors, etc.).  Open shade is two stops less.  Thus, if  you 
> have seven stops of latitude on the film, you can capture it all (the 
> world is often not that simple).  Thus, I find that if I meter with the 
> incident dome fully in the sun and pointing at it, then I need to open up 
> a stop to properly get the shadow.  Alternatively, if I turn the dome so 
> half is in the sun and half in the shade, then I get the "right" exposure 
> to capture all seven stops.  However, the book notes that different meters 
> are calibrated differently and that some are set to meter a stop less so 
> that an open sun reading will provide the right setting for the sun and 
> shade.
>
>
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