Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/05/14

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Subject: [Leica] Re: manual focus wildlife action
From: Simon Lamb <s_lamb@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 16:48:09 +0100
References: <20000514141103.13752.cpmta@c014.sfo.cp.net>

Doug

Thanks for a full and interesting response.  Some immediate questions/comments come to mind regarding your statements:

>>  The lens can be used at shutter speeds as slow as 1/60 sec (400mm) with excellent results <<

Do these lenses have some form of image stablisation or are you just a rock steady guy with nerves of steel.  Handholding at that focal length at 1/60sec would amplify any minor movement.  I presume you are using the shoulder stock.

>>  I've been in groups of photographers where the advantages of the fast-handling manual equipment made the difference between getting the picture and missing it because due to tripod fumbling or incorrect meter/AF/motor mode settings. <<

Hmmm.  They weren't very good then, were they.  I always use 3D Colour Matrix meter, continuous high speed drive and AF set 2.5m to infinity rather than full range.  No tripod either, and everything set beforehand.

>> no matter where the critter is in the viewfinder, even when the animal ducks behind a bush <<

Some SLRs will lock focus and not refocus on the bush, just as you would when manual focussing.

My responses are not intended to argue against your points.  I have now seen some images taken with R8 cameras that are incredible and I am very interested in yours and everyone elses experience in being able to produce such images.  If anything, it shows how much one can rely on technology (too much) and still not be the equal of those who learn and practice to trust only themselves.

Simon

Doug Herr wrote:

> On Sun, 14 May 2000, Simon Lamb wrote:
>
> > so that I can understand how non AF people operate is fast > action, what are
> > your (and the groups) opinion on this.
> >
> > You are tracking a lioness stalking a hers of wildebeest and you know that you
> > are going to see a high speed hunt in action. Suddenly the lioness accelerates
> > and gives chase, dodging this way and that as a single young wildebeest tries to
> > evade capture.  The action is happening realtime and sometimes the animals are
> > passing behind trees.
> >
> > Do you use your super SLR with predictive AF, focus lock-on so that you don't
> > refocus when the action goes behind obstacles, colour metering so you can forget
> > about exposures as they will be spot on and high shutter speeds because you has
> > 400 film in the camera and don't have time to change rolls.  You get 36 frames of
> > action captured in about 4 seconds, five seconds to change to new film, and off
> > again.
> >
> > OR
> >
> > M6 or R8 rangefinder/manual focus camera with none of the above.
> >
> > Now, don't shoot me down in flames.  As I have said, my new M6 is great and I
> > love it but it is not the tool for the job IMHO for the scenario above.  My F5
> > is.  So, as so many have said before, the picture counts and I know what will
> > give me the best chance of getting it.
> >
> > I would be interested in finding out how others with M6 or R8 would approach this
> > situation.  I know that many have said they were sports action photogs before AF
> > existed, so I would be interested to learn of any techniques that could work in
> > this type of scenario.
> >
> > Simon
>
> Simon,
>
> My assumption in the scenario you've presented is that the photographer is using one of N****'s long, fast AF lenses on a solid tripod, possibly with a Wimberly tripod head.  Supposedly an ideal equipment setup.
>
> First, I'd ditch the tripod.  Wildife action doesn't happen in predictable locations, as it might on a racetrack or a playing field.  It may be in front of me, to either side, above or behind me.  My 400mm and 560mm lenses are hand-held lenses, using a shoulder stock.  I've tripped over tripods too often, and lost too many shots moving the tripod, to consider using one aside from static situations.
>
> Second, I'll ditch a lens that's too heavy to use hand-held.  Leica's f/6.8 Telyts will do quite nicely: a simple two-element acromat at the end of a long aluminum tube make a very light-weight lens.
>
> Third, a traditional concentric-ring focus control is out.  Use a sliding-focus lens like the Novoflex or Leica f/6.8 Telyts.  With a little practice they're intuitive.
>
> Fourth, use a viewfinder to die for.  Best choice is a Leicaflex SL or SL2, the next best is the Leica R8.  Fortunately both the Leicaflex and the R8 are big enough that I can keep a solid grip on the camera as I'm following the wildlife going through their activities.
>
> Fifth, keep the camera simple enough that I can't inadvertantly set the wrong AF or metering mode.
>
> I'm using the f/6.8 Telyts and Leicaflex SL camera bodies for my wildlife photos.  The focus is quick and positive no matter what the background is, no matter where the critter is in the viewfinder, even when the animal ducks behind a bush.  I've only used an R8 for a day, and with familiarity (and the right diopter setting!) it would be as easy to use as the SL.  I can track fast action with ease, swinging the hand-held lens around far more easily than walking around a tripod, and don't have to hunt for stable footing for the tripod.  If I can stand, sit or lie down, I've got a stable lens.  The lens can be used at shutter speeds as slow as 1/60 sec (400mm) with excellent results.  The SL's selective meter, a dumb CdS meter cell, has consistently given me excellent results on chrome film.
>
> I've been in groups of photographers where the advantages of the fast-handling manual equipment made the difference between getting the picture and missing it because due to tripod fumbling or incorrect meter/AF/motor mode settings.
>
> Doug Herr
> Sacramento
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/telyt
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In reply to: Message from Doug Herr <telyt560@cswebmail.com> (manual focus wildlife action (was: Re: [Leica] Thanks!! OT Nikon F5))