Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/10/11
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Ted, Thanks so much for pointing out the obvious, you have a real gift! Just ran a batch of TMZ @ 3200 in Tmax with lots of agitation and it works like a charm, nice fat (relatively speaking) negatives :-)). This post is a real gem. Jonathan Borden > > > Hi Godfrey, > > Like wise myself at the beginning........just couldn't get it to work! But > then the light came on: "I read the instructions!" And unlike Frank > Sinatra, I stopped "Doing it my way!" And did it "their way"!!! Surprise! > What do we have here! Beauty negs and prints! Nice big 16 X 20's. > > "Why would KODAK spend thousands of dollars experimenting the > development > of this film, telling me "How it should be done" and then me not follow > their instructions? Then whine about it being a "no good film" So I > started developing exactly as in the instructions. > > The beginning of successful use of TMax: > > OK exposure: > > I rate it exactly what they call it: TMax "400" out doors and TMax "800" > indoors. Meter straight through the M6, R 7 or 8. Red lights come on > "PRESS BUTTON, TAKE PICTURE!":) Remember..."keep it simple!" It's a no > brainer with a Leica! > > Whether the TMax 400 is rated at 400 or 800, it is given exactly same time > and temps! > > Darkroom preparation: Lights on...developer poured in tank, 75 degrees. > Lights out, load stainless steel reels plunge reels into tank, lid on, > timer on, lights on! "AGITATE VIGOROUSLY!" > > "TEMPERATURE OF DEVELOPER" (1 dev: 4 water) 75 degrees for 6 minutes! > exactly like in the book! Same time and development for 400 or 800. The > reason it works best at higher temp is due to the viscosity of the liquid > developer...it's like syrup, hotter temp allows it to thin out and work > better over the emulsion. > > "AGITATION!": "Vigorously" is the operative word! Most of us learned > to "agitate gently," tap tank on table etc etc. Well folks that smoothie > system doesn't work with TMax....100 - 400 - 3200. > > Shake 'er a good one for the first 15 secs! yeah I know some are going to > say things like "hot areas around sprocket holes etc"...it doesn't happen > unless you go crazy. And at least 3 or 4 quick inversions every 30 secs > until time over. > > I don't use stop bath: Times up. In the dark....lid off... developer > dumped. Fixer "exactly same temperature" is poured to fill tank > quickly ... > lid on and then shake the hell out of the tank for 2 or 3 > minutes. Lid off, > check negs, back into fix to complete time. Total fix time...about 5 mins. > > All temps are maintained 75 degrees, washing as well. After 10 changes of > running water (tank fills dump water fill again) Hypo eliminator (1 oz) > "OK one quick gurgle" agitate well for 45 - 60 secs. dump! ........fill > tank running water...2-3 minutes...dump water refill and use wetting > agent...very carefully, only a few drops.... Agitate tank, dump and plunge > reel into clean water and out immediately....removes excess wetting agent. > > As each reel is removed for drying, hold reel tightly in hand and snap the > wrist action in downward motion to floor, removing excess water.. > Then hang > to dry. > > Of late, due to interest of Ilford film discussions on the LUG, I > have been > trying it....very interesting...have to try more before I get the "real > good feel for it" Simply because, TMax really works for me. :) > > Anyway, there is gang, one method for TMax films.....Don't forget, what > works for me may not be your cup of tea!! > > ted > > > > > > > > > Ted Grant > This is Our Work. The Legacy of Sir William Osler. > http://www.islandnet.com/~tedgrant > >