Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/09/11
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Mark- I made a mistake in my last post- use POTASSIUM BROMIDE, not iodide as a restrainer!!!! If the film you use comes out muddy, that's when to add the Bromide! Also- You can still get Diafine- I got some for my son earlier this year! Dan - ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Rabiner <mrabiner@concentric.net> To: <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 9:19 PM Subject: Re: [Leica] was (Introducing Johnny Deadman) now Split Developers?? > Bob Keene/Karen Shehade wrote: > > > > Showing my ignorance.... > > > > what is the process for "split D-76"? Or "split developers"? > ><Snip> > A split developer is where you take the Borax or the Carbonate; the Alkali out > of the rest of the formula and you use it as a second bath. 3 or 4 minutes each. > After the film absorbs all the developing agent it is "activated" by the alkali > in the second bath as a developer needs alkali to work. So you get this > incredibly compensating effect. Not the cleanest negs but certainly the fastest. > Highlights that will not block up no matter what. Shadows that are very strong. > You can use the first bath over and over till the cows come home way after it > turns ugly. > Developing times tend to be unified. You put all you films in the same tank and > run it. > Temperature is not critical, throw away that thermometer. > But again the negs are in some ways very easy to print in others too muddy. > Depends on subject matter. Worth a go. I used them between '82 and '84. Not > great for white backdrop work as the white doesn't drop out like it would need > to. If anything is going to give you more real film speed it is this developing > method. If i recall on the can of diafine it says to use Tri x at 800 but it's > been a decade or two since I've last seen a can. Dignam has a Diafine substitute. > Mark Rabiner