Re: [Leica] Nome and Leica

[Emanuel-Temp_Lowi%READERSDIGEST@READERSDIGEST.COM]

I work frequently in the Canadian Arctic, and use my Leicas there all the
time. I wouldn't bother with standard "cold-proofing" of your gear: it's
expensive, and has to be undone when you return to a more temperate
climate. Instead, how you behave and handle your cameras will make a big
difference in the cold. Here are some suggestions.
1) Put some cotton tape (bandage type or hockey tape) on the the metal
surfaces of the backs of your cameras - especially around the eyepieces and
near where your gloved fingers will be. This will make everything seem less
cold and will reduce the chances of your eyelids and eyelashes sticking to
the camera (ouch!).
2) Avoid changing lenses - too much risk of getting fogging, ice crystals
inside the back of the lens or inside the camera, and increased risk of
dropping a lens in the snow. Instead, put different focal length lenses on
each body so you can cover every situation as best as possible.
3) Try to shoot Kodachrome. The base is thicker, therefore less chance of
cracking in the cold than E6 films.
4) Advance and rewind film gently and slowly to avoid cracking.
5) Try not to get frustrated when reloading in the cold, even though your
fingers will feel like they're burning. Try to load properly the first
time, because failed attempts increase the chances of cracking the film
leader. Load up with fresh rolls before you go outside, and try to finish
off as much of this film in all your cameras before you start reloading.
6) Be extra careful about how you EXHALE when you are breathing. Try to
direct your breath away from the camera to avoid fogging and then freezing
the eyepiece, which is difficult to clean in the cold. M cameras are great
for this, because the eyepiece on one side makes it easier to breath away
from the camera. SLRs, with their central finders, are a bit trickier.
7) Try to wear a warm hat, and put your parka hood up only between shots.
This way, you won't fog up everything so quickly.
8) Put plain filters on all your lenses, so you won't scratch the front
element when you have to wipe off ice crystals.
9) If you find that the lens focussing mounts start freezing up, and are
becoming difficult to turn, quickly take a meter reading and set focus
using hyperfocal distance. If it's really cold, eventually you won't be
able to focus or adjust f-stops any more, but with a pre-metering and
hyperfocal technique you'll be able to keep shooting.
10) Your Leica shutters should be o.k., but I'll bet the M3 shutter will
hold up in the cold better than the newer models. My M6 eventually gets
sluggish. Don't drop the baseplates into the snow when reloading!
11) Wear a thin pair of gloves under your warmest mittens. Try to hang the
mitts around your neck by a string, like kids do. Remove your mitts for
shooting. Your hands will get cold, but at least you'll be able to operate
the cameras for a while.
12) I don't suggest keeping the cameras under your coat between shots. Just
let everything get cold while you're shooting, then warm everything up
slowly when the day is over.
13) Before you go back inside, seal each camera/lens in large clear plastic
bags (Ziploc?) with as little air as possible inside. Then bring the gear
into the house. This way, condensation forms on the bag, not on the
camera/lens. Let them sit that way for a few hours before removing from the
bags - the metal stays cold for a long time.
14) Don't forget to adjust your neck straps to fit everything over the
bulky clothing you'll probably be wearing. Try this out inside before you
go off to the race.
Have fun! You will get cold, but it sounds like you may get some great
shots!