[Leica] A Questionable Haze?

[len-1 at comcast.net (Leonard Taupier)]

Thanks, Dave.

I was thinking of buying tubes. Yours sound great. Many years ago I  
used the hard rubber tanks where you could put 6 sheets or so in at a  
time. I didn't like it. I felt the development was not giving me a  
consistent negative.

It looks like I've got some work to do in my spare time. Thanks for  
being so detailed.

Len


On Jul 21, 2008, at 12:28 PM, David Rodgers wrote:

> Len,
>
>>> What I need now is a tank for 4X5 sheet film. Developing in open
> trays in total darkness is no longer fun.<<
>
> I have a Yankee tank for 4x5. But I rarely use it. I use tubes, and  
> have
> for years with great success. I made 8 tubes at a cost of less than  
> $20
> (total not each). I only do BW.
>
> DaveR
>
> Here are the specifics if anyone is interested.
>
> Each tube consists of 2 pieces of 1.5" PVC.  One piece is ~ 6" in
> length. The other approx 2". I glued caps to one end of each piece. At
> the other end of the 2" piece I glued a non-threaded coupler (I'll
> explain later why non-threaded).
>
> Here's the workflow I use with the tubes:
>
> With lights on I fill a 2" piece with enough developer for one  
> sheet of
> film; a couple of ounces depending on dilution, etc. I place these --
> one for each sheet of film -- open end up in a row on the counter.  
> Next
> to each 2" tube I place a 6" tube. I place them up so they're easy to
> find in the dark. Then I turn the lights off.
>
> In darkness I put one sheet of undeveloped film into each 6" tube with
> the emulsion side facing the center of the tube. I then push the 6"  
> tube
> into the (facing up) coupler on the 2". This is the most difficult  
> part
> of the whole process, mainly because it's done in the dark. It's quick
> and easy, but I'm careful about 2 things. First, developer can't touch
> the film yet, so film up, developer down and no sloshing. Secondly,  
> the
> 6' piece needs to be pushed firmly into the coupler, so no leaks.
>
> Once I've pushed the tubes together I set it on end developer end  
> down.
> I then turn the lights back on.
>
> I have a water bath with enough surface area to hold all the tubes (I
> use a print tray). With lights on, I tip each of the tubes over so  
> they
> all float in the water bath. I start the timer and begin manually
> rotating the tubes. This creates constant agitation. My base  
> development
> times begin with times recommended for a Jobo rotary processor or BTZS
> tubes.
>
> I try and rotate the tubes so the developer moves at about the same
> speed as a Jobo. I don't think speed is as critical as consistency.
> Seconds before time is up I turn the lights out.
>
> In darkness I open each tube. I pour out the developer. I put the  
> opened
> tube back into the water bath. I allow water to fill the tube.  This
> acts as a stop. You could use a separate stop bath, but I just use the
> water in the water bath. I know the temp is right. I may put some  
> acetic
> acid in the water bath to bring the pH down, but I don't always.
>
> After a few seconds I drain the 6" tube and place it open end down on
> the countertop. It should be light tight that way. Once all the tubes
> are on the counter I turn the lights back on.
>
> In the light I take the 2" tubes and I fill them full of fixer. Then I
> turn the lights out. I again push the tube pieces together. Unlike
> developer, it doesn't matter if the fix touches the film when pushing
> the pieces together.
>
> I turn the lights on. I put the tubes back into the water bath and
> rotate to fix the film.
>
> Once the film has been fixed I remove it from the tube and put it in a
> tray to do a wash cycle.  There may be a slight bit of pink  
> (especially
> with TMAX). Sometimes fix doesn't reach the non-emulsion side if it's
> pressed tightly against the tube. I may put this film back in fix  
> for a
> minute if it's really ugly, or I may just let it wash out.
>
> Some people say you can leave the lights on once the film has been
> stopped. I don't do that. I don't expose the film to light until it  
> has
> been fixed.
>
> ABS couplers may not seal perfectly. Chemical might seep in or out,  
> But
> I've never had this problem. I push the tubes together tightly. A tube
> not pushed together tightly in an acidic water bath might be an issue.
> If the acidic bath were to seep in during the development process it
> would obviously cause problems.  Screw couplers seal better, but it's
> not worth it to me. I made one tube with a screw coupler and I  
> couldn't
> get it unscrewed to get the chemicals in and out on time.
>
> If it sounds like a lot of work, it's easier to develop 4x5 using  
> tubes
> than 35mm or 120 using tanks. It's easy to develop a single sheet or
> several. The biggest hassle in doing more sheets is keeping all the
> tubes rotating. I have 8 tubes, but try and only do 6 at a time. The
> tubes are easier to rotate when they're close together.
>
> If you need more specifics on making the tubes let me know. I'll  
> send a
> photo. My tubes are pretty ugly. I've used them for years. They still
> work fine. I've thought about buying a Speed Graphic or Linhof. I  
> have a
> Toyo 45A, but I'd like a rangefinder. Large format is great fun.
>
> daveR
>
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