[Leica] Leica IIIc

[bdcolen at earthlink.net (B. D. Colen)]

I, too, will second everything Don wrote. But, despite a IIIc having
been not only my first rangefinder, first Leica, and first 'serious'
camera, I'd suggest a Bessa for a first rangefinder. As wonderful as the
LTMs are in terms of their compactness and silence, you'll get a much
better sense of the modern reality of rangefinders, and whether the
rangefinder really works for you, with a Bessa body. Then, if you want
to go to a IIIc or IIIf, more power to you; my guess is you'll move on
to an M2,3 or 6 at somepoint. But I think that that various quirky
features of the IIIc - especially the viewfinder - may poison you as far
as rangefinders go. And that would be unfortunate.

B. D.

-----Original Message-----
From: lug-bounces+bdcolen=earthlink.net@leica-users.org
[mailto:lug-bounces+bdcolen=earthlink.net@leica-users.org] On Behalf Of
Thinkofcole@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 11:37 AM
To: lug@leica-users.org
Subject: [Leica] Leica IIIc



In answer to Duchan, Don Dory writes:

While I love my screwmounts, I would have to question purchasing a
fifty or sixty year camera as my first rangefinder.  Before you buy,
try loading the camera, are you comfortable with clipping each new roll
back 7 sprocket holes in the approved  pattern:

http://www.nemeng.com/leica/003d.shtml

Second, do you  find the separation of the rangefinder window from the
rather small and  squinty viewfinder window something you can live with
for your kind of  photography?

Third, do you understand the division of shutter speeds on  different
dials, how you shift between the slow speed and high speed  train.
Related, will the rotating shutter speed dial bother you as you  handle
the camera.

Assuming you have worked through the above, then  look at the camera.
Unless you have papers proving a recent CLA, assume that  the camera
will need to be worked on.  Start with the rangefinder patch,  is it
bright and distinct, or is it hard to see on low contrast  subjects.  In
relatively dim lighting can you focus?

Next up, set  the top shutter speed to 1/30 and the front speed dial to
1.  Trip the  shutter, does the gear train sound even, does it hesitate,
or does it not  finish the cycle.  If it doesn't finish the cycle, and
you don't really  want to spend 150 to 200 euro fixing the camera, then
stop on this model and  move on.  Unless of course the camera is less
than 100 Euro and you know  a competent repair person.

Assuming the shutter is smooth at one second,  proceed through the
shutter speeds making sure that the gears sound smooth  and even.

Open the bottom of the camera, does it have the take up  spool?  What
does the camera smell like?  Mildew is bad, old  lubricant is bad, nice
clean lubricant smell is good.

Take the lens  off, look at the shutter curtain.  Does it look cracked
and dry or does  it look like clean black silk?  Trip the shutter or
wind it to look at  the other curtain, does it look the same?

Last, any purchaser should give  you return privilege after you shoot a
roll of film to make sure there are no  light leaks or other nasties.

Now, why do I like LTM's?  First, they  are small and handy, almost
stealthy in use.  There is a huge store of  lenses at relatively cheap
prices out there in the most common focal lengths;  12mm to 180mm if you
go somewhat extreme.  If you know how to expose  without a meter, they
are a delight to use in thoughtful photography.   If you are a bit
eccentric, then a PLOOT opens up focal lengths way out  there.  Want to
wind faster; learn to wind with your index finger or  purchase one of
Tom's Barnack winders.  Two frames a second with a sixty  year old
camera is not too bad. Don _dorysrus@mindspring.com_
(mailto:dorysrus@mindspring.com) 
 
I agree with all Don Dory says but if Duchan lives in Germany,  Leica
repair 
people should be able to deliver an overhauled late-model IIIc body with
a 
late-model lens [ say, an Elmar 50/3.5] at a reasonable price, say no
more  
than $250 USD [199 Euros].
 
The IIIc was made from 1940 to 1951 [ with Serial Numbers from 360,175
to  
525,000], so anything with numbers beginning from 500,000 would be a
late model. 
 Wartime models often had flaky chrome because of chrome shortages. The 
50/3.5  Elmar lens, made from 1924 to 1942, were coated starting with
Ser. No. 
581,501,  so that most 50/3.5 Elmar lenses after that should be
suitable. 
 
   Assuming that the seller is honest and he can back the camera,  the 
hardest part --as Don mentioned -- is loading the film and I suggest
that  Duchan 
actually tries to load a roll of film. 
   If his second finger -- the pointer -- is thick, he may find  it
difficult 
to remove the take up spool [on the right side of the camera as he
points it 
toward the subject] so that he can load the film. 
 I don't remember if the spring-loaded take-up spool fits the IIIc,  but
if 
it does, I suggest he ask the seller to provide it instead of the older
one. 
 If Duchan is able to load the film, I believe the rest should be  easy.

 For $250, I believe the seller should also give him a clean  Leica case
and, 
depending on Duchan's bargaining prowess, a UV filter, hood and
instruction 
book, especially the instruction book. 
 Regards, bob cole
 


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