Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2015/07/17
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Don Dory wrote: >>> The Canon 500 is probably your best bet unless you spend into the Leica APO modular lenses which cost as much as your truck. <<< Have you seen my truck? The Leica Modular APO lenses are worth 3-4 times what my truck is worth ;) Weight is probably similar. >>> I would figure out what corrections need to be made to color and contrast and just apply a global correction to any images taken with the 500 in LR or whatever software you are using to do RAW conversion. Once you dial in the correction then doing a global fix is pretty easy to add to your work flow. <<< OK thanks. I just have to work out what those corrections are. >>> As to the Sony, I believe it is currently the best solution to someone with lenses from several vendors; <<< I agree! I expect to be using LeiCaNikon lenses on it. I have no plans for a native-mount lens until Zeiss makes a 500mm f/4 Tele-Apotessar for it, and even then I'll check the weight, price & responsiveness. Overall I'm quite pleased with the a7II. The a7rII will be very enticing once the inevitable new-camera bugs are worked out of it and "undocumented features" are discovered and work-arounds found. The one thing I haven't worked out yet on the a7II is how to reverse the direction of the shutter speed control dial, currently configured to the front dial. It turns the opposite direction vs. the R8 and my head is balking at that. The rear dial isn't an option because of tendonitis in my right thumb. Bob Adler wrote: >>> Seems, by testing the Canon on different sensors, that this issue is inherent in the lens. Basically that leaves you searching for a software solution. <<< Yup. that's what I'm looking for. >>> Things that seem to PPP to mind are using that free Adobe software to calibrate the lens to, using a Mcbeth color chart to also figure out what you need to do in your raw processing to get the real chart to look like the file you create, or go to a different lens and use lense cast removal software for varying or critical apertures (Capture One has this) and apply this to your images. Some kind of software workaround for a hardware problem? <<< OK this gives me some ideas, thanks Bob. Doug Herr Birdman of Sacramento http://www.wildlightphoto.com http://doug-herr.fineartamerica.com