Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2013/11/19
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Ken there's a new way to string the wire in the back of the frame so it forms a large loop with ends sticking up you hand the frame from at two points. A small earthquake and or semi's going by will not make the frame crooked. Nor will you have to ever reach up and straighten it out. I learned this from my supplier of several decades which I've hung many shows with. The light impressions company used to get their catalogs. I'm betting they're all internet now. http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/ And when you cut a mat or have one cut they are never symmetrically cut centered on all four sides. Pre cut mats are done that way if you don't give specifications. Very low level. Have mats cut for either vertical or horizontal. You always want a bit more space at the button or the image will appear to "sink". In the hundreds of photo and other shows I've seen its always done this week. This way also a signature at the bottom of the print looks right. At this point you don't sign the matt you sign the print if you sign at all. I sign with pencil. On 11/19/13 7:44 PM, "Ken Carney" <kcarney1 at cox.net> wrote: > FWIW, here is what I do. I use Nielsen gallery frames (black) for > everything, and Lucite or plexi instead of glass, so the assembly (foam > board in back and mat board) is pretty light. Hanging consists of one nail > at a 45 degree angle, to hold the frame in the top channel. No wires or > hangers. A single nail will usually be OK for portrait or landscape > orientation with some space between images. I don't make huge prints, so a > 20x24" or 16x20 frame is fine. You can buy the UV plexi, foam board and > mat > board online. Chris Crawford referred me to the Simplex Plus mat cutter, > which does a great job with a little practice and is only about $400. With > it you can cut individual mats for a specific crop, with the right optical > center. Hope this helps. > > I forgot - here in Oklahoma we are only dealing with about 3.5 earthquakes, > so my solution just requires repositioning the frame now and then. In CA > where you are, I don't know...you might need duct tape or superglue. > > Best regards, > > Ken Carney > www.kencarney.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: lug-bounces+kcarney1=cox.net at leica-users.org > [mailto:lug-bounces+kcarney1=cox.net at leica-users.org] On Behalf Of Adam > Bridge > Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 11:13 AM > To: Leica Users Group > Subject: [Leica] How to hang prints > > After an extensive remodel I'm about to hang prints. > > Yippee! > > But I wonder what's the best way to do it? I want rotate images for variety > at least. The museum answer is often to suspend the framed images from > long, > thin wires suspended from the wall near the ceiling which makes fewer holes > in the wall and the paint and certainly puts those holes where they won't > be > easily seen. It does expose wires, however. The other way, obviously, is to > use hangers behind each image but that means that a new framed print will > almost certainly require new holes unless the print is the same size. > > I'm looking for thoughts about how to do this. Please share? > > Thank you! > > Adam > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information -- Mark William Rabiner Photographer http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/lugalrabs/