[Leica] A Questionable Haze?

[drodgers at casefarms.com (David Rodgers)]

Len,

>> What I need now is a tank for 4X5 sheet film. Developing in open
trays in total darkness is no longer fun.<<

I have a Yankee tank for 4x5. But I rarely use it. I use tubes, and have
for years with great success. I made 8 tubes at a cost of less than $20
(total not each). I only do BW. 

DaveR

Here are the specifics if anyone is interested. 

Each tube consists of 2 pieces of 1.5" PVC.  One piece is ~ 6" in
length. The other approx 2". I glued caps to one end of each piece. At
the other end of the 2" piece I glued a non-threaded coupler (I'll
explain later why non-threaded).

Here's the workflow I use with the tubes:

With lights on I fill a 2" piece with enough developer for one sheet of
film; a couple of ounces depending on dilution, etc. I place these --
one for each sheet of film -- open end up in a row on the counter. Next
to each 2" tube I place a 6" tube. I place them up so they're easy to
find in the dark. Then I turn the lights off. 

In darkness I put one sheet of undeveloped film into each 6" tube with
the emulsion side facing the center of the tube. I then push the 6" tube
into the (facing up) coupler on the 2". This is the most difficult part
of the whole process, mainly because it's done in the dark. It's quick
and easy, but I'm careful about 2 things. First, developer can't touch
the film yet, so film up, developer down and no sloshing. Secondly, the
6' piece needs to be pushed firmly into the coupler, so no leaks. 

Once I've pushed the tubes together I set it on end developer end down.
I then turn the lights back on. 

I have a water bath with enough surface area to hold all the tubes (I
use a print tray). With lights on, I tip each of the tubes over so they
all float in the water bath. I start the timer and begin manually
rotating the tubes. This creates constant agitation. My base development
times begin with times recommended for a Jobo rotary processor or BTZS
tubes. 

I try and rotate the tubes so the developer moves at about the same
speed as a Jobo. I don't think speed is as critical as consistency.
Seconds before time is up I turn the lights out. 

In darkness I open each tube. I pour out the developer. I put the opened
tube back into the water bath. I allow water to fill the tube.  This
acts as a stop. You could use a separate stop bath, but I just use the
water in the water bath. I know the temp is right. I may put some acetic
acid in the water bath to bring the pH down, but I don't always.   

After a few seconds I drain the 6" tube and place it open end down on
the countertop. It should be light tight that way. Once all the tubes
are on the counter I turn the lights back on.   

In the light I take the 2" tubes and I fill them full of fixer. Then I
turn the lights out. I again push the tube pieces together. Unlike
developer, it doesn't matter if the fix touches the film when pushing
the pieces together. 

I turn the lights on. I put the tubes back into the water bath and
rotate to fix the film.

Once the film has been fixed I remove it from the tube and put it in a
tray to do a wash cycle.  There may be a slight bit of pink (especially
with TMAX). Sometimes fix doesn't reach the non-emulsion side if it's
pressed tightly against the tube. I may put this film back in fix for a
minute if it's really ugly, or I may just let it wash out.  

Some people say you can leave the lights on once the film has been
stopped. I don't do that. I don't expose the film to light until it has
been fixed. 

ABS couplers may not seal perfectly. Chemical might seep in or out, But
I've never had this problem. I push the tubes together tightly. A tube
not pushed together tightly in an acidic water bath might be an issue.
If the acidic bath were to seep in during the development process it
would obviously cause problems.  Screw couplers seal better, but it's
not worth it to me. I made one tube with a screw coupler and I couldn't
get it unscrewed to get the chemicals in and out on time.  

If it sounds like a lot of work, it's easier to develop 4x5 using tubes
than 35mm or 120 using tanks. It's easy to develop a single sheet or
several. The biggest hassle in doing more sheets is keeping all the
tubes rotating. I have 8 tubes, but try and only do 6 at a time. The
tubes are easier to rotate when they're close together. 

If you need more specifics on making the tubes let me know. I'll send a
photo. My tubes are pretty ugly. I've used them for years. They still
work fine. I've thought about buying a Speed Graphic or Linhof. I have a
Toyo 45A, but I'd like a rangefinder. Large format is great fun. 

daveR