Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/12/01
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Ted and Chris, Thanks bunch. It reminds me of the time I shot Reala 100 in Times Square using my Rollei AFM P&S. Shots actually came out fine, and this was with no careful bracketing. So I guess I'll start with the meter reading and bracket a bit from there. With the M6TTL meter do the trick for me? What is the longest exposure it supports? And Ted, I do also plan to shoot some digital with my D70. Thanks. Scott Ted Grant wrote: > Scott McLoughlin asked: > Subject: [Leica] OT: Shooting Xmas trees at night - ?<<<<< > >>>> I'm interested in shooting some xmas trees at night (outdoors). I >>>> plan to >>> > use a tripod, I suppose. But how should I meter the trees? They will be > all lit up. Will I run into reciprocity failure issues? What might be > some > good films to use, color and B&W?<<< > > > Hi Scott, > I suppose I'm the least technical person to answer your question. :-) > However, if you'd like simple voice of experience answering your > question this is how I've done it for years and exactly the way I do > it with digital. > > I look through the view finder camera in hand until I feel comfortable > with what I'm looking at. Camera goes on tripod, I set everything for > the same composition. > > Then I look through the viewfinder squeeze down gently on the shutter > release to activate the meter and if it looks OK, click! :-) That's > it. Then shoot some bracketing by either an exposure time or aperture > setting. I've shot Kodachrome 25 & 64 & 100 in this fashion, other > slide films to ASA 400. I prefer daylight balance film, generally ASA > 100. > > I suppose that technical reciprocity stuff might come into play on > long exposures, but you are going to bracket a half dozen frames > either side of the meter read setting anyway, so you eliminate it. ;-) > > Keep it simple, don't get all hung up on the technical stuff as it'll > only drive you crazy and you'll probably screw-up more film than not. > Worse comes to worse, shoot a roll as early as you can when the lights > come up on the trees, get in right away to the lab and have a look. > If you screwed-up you've got time to go back and re-shoot better and > more houses. > > If it's digital shoot tons of frames as it doesn't cost a dime and > sooner or later you'll have some that work. I'd use ASA 100 or 200 and > in my case... I'll be shooting everything on automatic and looking at > what the exposure is. Then I go manual and bracket by my gut feeling. > Like a half stop over and under, a full stop over and under and that's > about it. > > The chances are with the 20D Leicanon, I'll shoot a number on auto, > then move on without any changing or fiddling. This is from experience > of shooting at night on the streets of Lisbon in September. Completely > a no brainer set at ASA 100 and shoot while the camera sorts out the > exposure. I used ASA 100 and shot most of the night stuff on auto > stopped down to f22 for longer exposures to capture the traffic light > patterns. > > I trust this helps, but like I said, it's not too bright from a > techies point of view. But from a, do it, done it, point of > experience, it works. :-) > > Oh, on B&W film choice? Forget it! Christmas tree lights are all about > "coloured lights" therefore a colour subject. Scan your colour slides > into Photoshop, switch to B&W and you'll be only too pleased you > didn't waste money on B&W film and processing. ;-) > > ted > > Ted Grant Photography Limited > 1817 Feltham Road > Victoria BC V8N 2A4 > 250-477-2156 > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information