Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/04/14
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]What a great summary: of course you need a Rabiner translator, but after a few years of lugging this is 'easy' ;-) Thanks Mark Mark Rabiner writes: > On 4/14/05 10:41 AM, "Scott McLoughlin" <scott@adrenaline.com> typed: > >> Yellow-green has become my standard B&W filter, although in >> some filter sizes I still only have a medium yellow. Y-G is a good >> general all-around effect, IMHO. >> >> Scott >> >> Didier Ludwig wrote: >> > Perhaps it is good you mentioned what film you are using although it's rare > I think of black and white filtration as a film specific thing so much. > They > give you a sheet with each film or you now you download the pdq as to how > that film specifically relates to filters but that stuff can just drive you > crazy and I tend to ignore it. They are all pretty close to each other > mostly. > That said the C41 monochrome films seen to have a built in yellow green > filter in them. Plenty of tone in the sky. I can leave mine off. > Shoot bare naked glass. It's very refreshing. > A big new trend in cinematography I hear. Really. > Tri x benefits even more from the use of a yellow-green filter as it's kind > of red sensitive. > Yellow-green is said to restore true panchromatiosity to the film. > (don't bother trying to look that one up) > Which says its panchromatic. > But ain't. > > PANCHROMATIC means the film sees all the colors equally. Or the way you'd > think they'd see them as translated to grays. While most films are very > blue, cyan or UV sensitive. And slightly red insensitive. > Making for skies which block up quickly going dead white unless you expose > for them. > Placing them at zone VII or VI even. > But the yellow-green cuts though the phlegm. Making those little wispy > clouds in the horizon come out. And so on. > A black and white print with no tone in the sky is a wash out. > You need at least tone. If not a hint of texture. (clouds I'd think for the > most part but whatever's up there) > > About the only filters which you can use when those pesky people creep into > the shot are the yellow green. > Light green. > Green I guess. > Ok dark green (it's hard to be green) > And that's it. > Anything else is death. Or near death. > > Yellow despite what many will say (and do) you can't just leave on your > lens > like a UV filter which does something. It makes for real pasty skin tones. > Almost like when you are shooting indoors with tungsten light but not quite > as bad. As there is no magenta in it. > > So you need that green the the mix to make it yellow green (B+W 060) > I sure got that number memorized. > > Oh and a polarizer is also ok for skin tones as well as skies and works > nice > if you ever happen to have color film in your camera. Or a charge coupled > device. > > The rest of the filters I think of as what they do to the sky. > How cutting and contrasting an effect you want. > > Green and dark green have the advantage of not only cutting through all > that > UV phlegm in the sky quite a nice bit not not darkening the foliage like > all > the other filters would. Which is a bad thing. > Lightening the foliage works out so it's usually good. > It's my first reach for landscapes. > Dark green is always an option for even more of an effect. Which really > does > not look like an "effect". > And you can be the only one on your block using one. > You usually have to order them and wait. > But such a thing (any filtration at all) really makes the negs easier to > print. > And gets people thinking you're the new Ansel Adams if your shooting a > landscape and maybe your neg. is bigger than 35mm. > No filtration at all and my such prints never come close. > Don't know what it is. > > Red > Is the biggest cutting effect for the sky. > Bringing out texture (clouds) you didn't dream were there. > Almost as much of a nice surprise as using IR film. > Which you need a red filter with anyway. > If not a dark red. Which is also very nice with normal film. > Red makes foliage go black. > This can look real bad real quick. > Unless you like the backdrop of the Mona Lisa. Which looks like the moon. > So you want it to be mainly a sky oriented shot or a shot where the trees > are way off in the distance so they look less weird black. > > If pesky people types creep into the shot their lips will be white. > Like that Linda Ronstat album cover in which I'm sure was done with a red. > Maybe she had zits that week. Zits look great white. It's better than > Clearasil. > > Orange is for slightly less of an effect than red. > And all the other quirks apply. > > Yellow and dark yellow is for slightly less of an effect than Orange. > But does not screw up the foliage quite as bad. Just the shadows next to > them. > The shadows next to rocks tend to be cyan blue and this filter sucks the > juice right out of them. Making for what looks like an underexposed shot. > As your not getting the detail in those shadows that you'd expect to see > and > had planned for. > The filter thinks anything cyan blue is the sky and darkens them. > Even if they are nice shadows you want to see into. > So while yellow might seem nice only absorbing a stop or less it has less > use than it might seem. > And as I said make people looks like "Will the real Martian please stand > up". > > In the Ansel Adams photo series he talks about using a blue to make stuff > look further away. > Right. > I've experienced with using a cooling filter with black and white and it > makes for neg. which needs Agfa Brovira #6 which they don't make any more > no > matter how long you soup it. > I doubt Ansel really used a blue filter for his black and white. > He claimed there as one shot and showed it in the book. > It's not one I think they ever put on one of his calendars or postcards. > Forget blue. Or cooling filters for black and white. > They are death. > > > Mark Rabiner > Photography > Portland Oregon > http://rabinergroup.com/ > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information Alastair Firkin www.afirkin.com www.familyofman2.com