Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2004/01/26
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Howard,
I just got back from North Africa doing one of my favorite things - roaming
around deserts in Land Rovers! We were in Marrakech for Christmas and in
the Draa Valley for New Years. ;-)
Without a doubt, the best place to stay in Marrakech is in a traditional
house ("Riad") right in the old city ("Medina"). We have done this twice
now, and each time it has been outstanding. You and your family could rent
a small one and I guarantee you that it will be cheaper and a better
experience than any hotel. These are generally 3 stories high, with a small
courtyard open to the sky. Around this courtyard on each level are the
bedrooms. This Christmas, we had a large one, as we had 5 other friends
along. We had our own housekeeper and cook as well. Even when we rented a
small one just for our family (4), we had a cook/housekeeper with us.
Contact Marrakech Medina for details. The URL is below. Talk to Nora. She
speaks a little English. You will have to pay in advance, but trust me,
they are a good outfit with the best riads.
http://www.marrakech-medina.com
Looking down into our small riad during the '00 trip
http://www.spectare.com/dispatches/LondonBombayCebu/d05-Morocco/image15.html
Whatever you do, avoid the Grand Hotel du Tazi near the city centre, which
is recommended by some guide books - an older edition of the Lonely Planet
in particular. It is awful. Hair and stains on the pillows, pubic hairs
all over the linens, glass broken out of the windows, centipedes in the
bathrooms... Horrible.
I'd also avoid the much vaunted "La Mamounia". We stayed there once to see
what it was like and we found it a real turn off. Snobby staff, equally
snobby guests, and we all became very ill from eating club sandwiches there.
On top of that, thier prices are just insane. La Mamounia is not the place
to have an authentic Marrakech experience. You must stay in a riad inside
the medina.
The Medina at night - a safe and secure place...
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0465.htm
That brings us to food. Many of the restaurants that surround the Djemaa el
Fna are a rip off with lousy food to boot. My advice is to have your cook
prepare a good solid breakfast at your riad, then just grab a small snack
for lunch. Then, at around 6-7pm, eat at one of the many food stalls that
are set up in the Djemaa el Fna in the evening. We have done this many
times and have never been sick. Some people find it a turn-off that the
food (particularly meats) are on open display uncovered, but they are all
cooked well and very very tasty.
Tip: One of the best of these stalls is #41. Great every time. Ask for
Ahmed. He will take good care of you. Come back a few times in a row and
you will get the royal treatment. His grilled aubergine is great, as well
as the kefta.
Photo: the guy on the far left is Ahmed at stall #41. My son is just to his
right taking a photo. If you go there, could you print out a copy and give
it to him for me? I can provide a high res original.
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0452.htm
Cooking mussels at Djemaa el Fna:
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0443.htm
As far as photography goes, it is tough in any Moroccan city. People often
want a tip for a photo, but people with whom you have engaged in a
transaction already are always happy to pose for you. But candids are
tough. It gets better in the desert. Down toward Zagora and Mhamid in the
Draa valley, people are a little more mellow about it. Women will generally
not appreciate thier photo being taken by a stranger. Take some time to get
to know people and it gets a little easier.
These shots of Omar was taken at dawn near Merzouga:
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0902.htm
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0900.htm
One of our campsites near Merzouga
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0893.htm
My wife, Karin near Mhamid
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw1348.htm
Thing is, it can be hard to get access to these people unless you have
wheels. We had driven our own Land Rovers down from the UK. But there are
many agencies in Marrakech with the white Land Rover Defender 110s that can
take you out for a few days. It is well worth the trouble to do so.
Cool Land Rovers
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw1228.htm
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/discojump1024.htm
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0845.htm
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw1550.htm
One of the white tourist D110s near Mouzouga
http://www.spectare.com/gallery/Maroc%2003%20Gallery/source/20cw0865.htm
Email me off list if there is anything else you want to know.
- --Jim Laurel
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Cummer" <cummer@netvigator.com>
To: <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 8:03 PM
Subject: [Leica] OT Venice Hotels / Marrakesh
Also, after Venice we are going to Marrakesh for a
> conference and travel tips for that area of the world would also be
> appreciated. I expect I will take my Canon digital SLR and Leica R
> lenses on this trip - just to stray back on topic.
> Gong Xi Fa Cai (Happy New Year!)
> Howard in Hong Kong
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