Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2002/01/08
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]There seems to be a lot of different methods for film wash most of them shorter than what I would have thought compared to Kodak's 20-30 minute wash time... I've read in a few places about not using a fixer with hardener. Is this just for slow films or most current films in general? What will be the consequence of using hardener...? (I just did with my Pan-F roll) I think I can just make up a batch of the Kodak Rapid Fixer and leave out the hardener if I remember correctly... - -- John Chicago, IL http://SlideOne.com ==================== on 1/8/02 8:00 AM, DJR at don.ro@verizon.net wrote: > Good morning, John: > > I have not been a believer in Hypo Clear as it is just one more > chemical to do mischief. The following is my technique for processing > Tech Pan including the Ilford washing procedure: > > > PROCESSING OF KODAK TECH PAN FILM (35MM AND 120) > > > A. Developer > > 1. Use TEC compensating developer - it is a very simple developer that > is as easy to use as D-76. > > 2. Add one ounce (1 oz.) TEC concentrate plus thirty ounces (30 oz.) > distilled water. > > 3. Bring diluted developer to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. (70 °F). > Bring all solutions including wash water to the same temperature or > within one degree. Be sure to use a good process thermometer that is > accurate to 1/4 degree Fahrenheit. > > 4. Set the timer for eight (8) minutes. > > 5. Pour only enough developer into Nikor type stainless steel tank to > cover one reel of film. Have second film reel with no film on it to > use as a filler to prevent the single reel containing the film from > plunging up and down as the tank is inverted. Idea is to use only > enough developer to cover the film on one reel which will be placed at > bottom of tank, then when tank is inverted, the developer will > completely uncover the film and then completely cover the film when > the tank is turned upright. In this manner, you should receive much > more uniform agitation and avoid the streaks created by the sprocket > holes along the edges of the 35mm film. > > B. Wind film on Nikor type stainless steel reel, slip the reel > containing the film over the stainless steel lift rod so it is on the > bottom and then the empty reel over the rod second. Carefully lower > the two reels into the developer tank, turn on the clock, and cap the > tank. > > C. Agitation > > 1. Method of agitation. The proper agitation is the inversion method > and that is performed by holding the tank between the thumb and second > finger so when you turn your wrist over the tank is turned upside > down, and then when the wrist is rotated back to its starting point, > the tank will be upright. A single cycle of turning the tank upside > down and then upright should take approximately two (2) seconds. > > 2. Initial Agitation -- agitate the tank nine (9) times and set the > tank in the tempering vessel. Be careful to hold the tank so the > water in the tempering bath does not cause the tank to rock from the > ripples created when the tank was returned to the bath. If the tank > rocks, the film-developer will be agitated which results in > over-development and unwanted contrast. > > 3. Agitate Once Each Minute After Initial Agitation -- When the timer > shows the end of the first minute or the start of the next minute, > agitate the tank twice. > > D. Film Rinse and Fixer - DO NOT USE A HARDENING FIXER > > 1. After agitating the film tank for the last time which is at the > beginning of the last minute, remove the cap and lid, get ready to > remove the two reels from the developer tank; then with ten (10) > seconds before the end of the development period, lift the reels from > the tank to drain the developer. > > 2. Slip the reels into a tank of rinse water the same temperature as > the developer, and move the reels up and down gently for twenty (20) > seconds, then drain for ten (10) seconds. > > 3. Slip the reels in the rapid fixer and gently move the reels up and > down gently for the first thirty (30) seconds, let rest for thirty > (30) seconds, move the reels up and for twenty (20) seconds and then > raise the reels from the fixer to drain for ten (10) seconds. > > E. Film Wash > > The Ilford archival procedure saves time and water. Only > three (3) changes of wash water is necessary, so have prepared enough > wash water to fill your tank three times and the water must be within > one degree Fahrenheit of the fixer. The follow this procedure: > > Ilford says "This method of washing is faster, uses less water yet > still gives negatives of archival permanence." > > 1. Fix it using Ilford Universal Rapid fixer. > > 2. After fixing, fill the tank with water at the same temperature as > the processing solutions, and invert it five times. > > 3. Drain the water away and refill. Invert the tank ten times. > > 4. Drain and refill it for the third time and invert the tank twenty > times. Drain the water away. > > F. Anti-Static Rinse > Thirty (30) seconds in ECCO 121 to reduce static and > allow water to run off cleanly > This procedure provides me with a negative having a > Contrast Index of approximately .52 that prints nicely on Ilford > Multigrade IV with number 2 filter. It allows me to shoot Tech Pan at > an honest E.I. of 40 and you may fudge to 80 or 100 depending upon the > amount of shadow detail you feel you may do without. I would welcome > any comments that will improve this procedure. E-mail > DonjR43198@aol.com > > On Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:32:01 -0600, you wrote: > >> Well I just developed my first roll of B&W in 8 years....hope I didn't mess >> it up... >> >> I don't have any Hypo Clear so what's my wash time? I have a 2 reel >> stainless tank with water running through it at a medium speed in the >> sink...30 min??? >> >> Thanks In Adv... >> -- >> John >> Chicago, IL >> http://SlideOne.com >> ==================== - -- To unsubscribe, see http://mejac.palo-alto.ca.us/leica-users/unsub.html