Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2001/12/10
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Feliciano di Giorgio wrote: > > Mark Rabiner wrote: > > > If it's not cut up yet then roll it back on a reel and mix of a fresh > > batch of rapid fix with no hardener and fix it again for another 10 minutes. > > > > Wash and dry. > > Ahh, there we go. The fixer has a hardener in it. > > Maybe you have the answer to another question. Does Rodinal punch the > grain on Tri-X? > Can you suggest a developer that works a little smoother on Tri-X? > > Thanks, > > feli T Max film has hardener built into it so the hardener in the developer isn't going to help it and could easier hurt it or hurt you. I say that so you'll avoid powered developers which tend not to be Ammonium Thiosulfite and the hardener just stinks things up. You have to make sure you are using a Rapid fix even if it's not Kodak it has to be Ammonium Thiosulfite not Sodium Thiosulfite which is classic hypo and wont do it on iodide rich modern tab grain films. It just cant get the iodides out out out. http://www.fotoinfo.com/info/technicalinfo/fixerbkdn.html I know Kodak Rapid fix A with no hardener B WILL WORK. And as i use a second fresher fix like a kind of clearing bath so i never get funny surprises when i go down and look at my film the next day. Rodinal is about the grainiest developer ever made I think it wins first prize in that department so ANY developer would be smoother than Rodinal in the grain department. But may probably also make you feel like you lens is coated with thick dust so you'll rush off the clean it and it'll already be clean. For me Xtol gives smooth grain AND sharpness both which was almost mutually exclusive things. Mark Rabiner Portland, Oregon USA http://www.markrabiner.com - -- To unsubscribe, see http://mejac.palo-alto.ca.us/leica-users/unsub.html