Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/09/25
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]>If I expose a print for 10 seconds and it hit the floor switch (which i highly >recommend) to burn the sky for another 10 seconds I'll think of it and >write on >the back of the print: >"B sky 1S" >burn sky one stop. >I heard it was good a while back to think in terms of "stops" as much as >you can >in the darkroom. >So I have done that with my dodging and burning and i think it helps. >Especially when you DONT change your F stop at a different magnification. >Because it does not help to in your own head think about "hold 5 seconds >on the >face" as a matter of course. >When five seconds could represent a half or a quarter or less, of a stop. >Mark W. Rabiner >:) mark, this is pretty much what i do, only i think of the time in percentages (of the initial print time) as opposed to f-stops. when i have a print time of 10 seconds and burn the sky for 10 seconds, should i ever reprint the neg in a different size, i'll begin by burning the sky for 100% of the total print time. that may not give me the exact same results, but it's a good starting point. seen from this perspective, i.e. from what folks here on the lug have described in their various posts, there doesn't seem to be a tremendous difference between the 'percentage method' and the 'f-stop method' when speaking of dodging and burning times: they are both ways of discussing time in non-absolute terms. for me personally, the percentage approach seems more natural. not being much of a mathematician, it is simply easier for me to calculate in percentages rather than in fractions of f-stops. guy p.s. not having a foot switch (i use the lab in the school where i teach), when i have to burn that sky for 10 additional seconds i use one of two approaches: if i can mask the remaining area with my hands, i just double the time on the timer, and move my hands into position half-way through the exposure time (in this case, 10 seconds in). if i can't burn the area with my hands, and need to use a cardboard mask, i do a second exposure: with the mask held high under the lens to block the light from hitting the paper, i set the timer for 18 seconds, then turn it on. i now have 8 seconds to move the mask into position and burn the sky in for the necessary 10 seconds. it works for me.