Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/04/17
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]>OK, I'm now officially confused. . . . There is also a lot of talk about how >neutral greys are neutral, and how skin tone is natural. --> I looked at a few photos shot with this film, for Kodak advertising purposes, and definitely think it's another "caramel" skin tone film: thrash ! I had the same :+( when checking out MAX 800 last week. If someone I know looked like that, I'd think they're ready to be cremated ... or badly need some exercise . . . Compare with Fuji Reala CZ or Vericolor VPS III (PORTRA supposedly replacing Vericolor : sheesh !) . . . >Also, is there *any* point in using colour correction filters with colour >negative film? > --> Yes: when you have severe color compensation need, as with fluorescent lights [ eek! ] and those sunrise / sunset "2 hour" color shift zones plus "creative" photographic special effects. I use skylight 1a when near the sea, sometimes on overcast days (but it can work against my intended results ). Some photographers use color enhancing filters that I have never tried. --> Though digital manipulation simplifies things somewhat, it would seem logical to try and "can" the best negative that's possible to get right at the camera, rather than rely on post-production tricks to salvage lower grade shots. This will preserve contrast and lessen "noise", poor color saturation. Think in terms of "spectrum": everything has a spectrum, including the film(s) you use. Restoring the spectrum balance would be the name of the game, generally speaking. --> IF you tend to make very long exposure tripod photos, color reciprocity becomes a consideration, but it's rare in 35mm photography. This refers to the varying sensitivities of the various color layers of any given color capable film. Basically, above 30 seconds of exposure, a Type L (long- exposures for memory) film is better. >Hmm, does anyone know of a good source of information for how to use >professional colour negative film? It seems that I have a lot to learn. > --> Read ASC material, product literature, lighting control books and articles, and develop your own sense of colour by viewing "critically" various well done magazines like National Geographic, GEO, and a few others. Various books about "art", painting, graphic arts, will help you in enhancing your general "colour culture". The feeling that you have a lot to learn will only get worse with age and experience; that's why we keep working at it, v.g. lessening one's ignorance ... or trying to. >(Why am I considering negative film and not trannies? Well, it's cheaper, >has greater exposure lattitude, is easier to make prints from, and >presumably scans at least as well as chromes do. BTW -- is it E6 or C-41 >that's a female dog to do in the home darkroom?) > >Martin Howard --> I truly hope the dog does not have access to your lab: I freak out on dust and specks. That's why I dropped out from lab work even if I enjoyed the creative process. I tend to think in term of photo to digital now, but still don't own a proper scanner. --> C41 for colour negative, E6 for slides. Andre Jean Quintal