[Leica] ZS and spot meter - (long)

[Christer Almqvist <christer@almqvist.net>]

(This is a reply to a posting which I deleted, so the subject has been
changed, I think.)

Well, generally speaking, I do not use the zone system with my M. However
the person who asked the initial question also asked about spot meters, and
if you use a spot meter, then you have to apply the principles of the zone
system. If you do not, and use the spot meter reading without any
adjustment, then the area you measured will be exposed on the film to give
you an average grey on grade 2 paper with normal printing,  no matter if
the area measured was almost white, grey or almost black. And average grey
is not what my wife wants her face to look, spot meter or no spot meter.

I find it valuable to have some understanding of the zone system, even if
it is not directly used with the M cameras. Testing out a new development
technique, or a new film, or a new developer (all of which should be
avoided as much as possible!), it is very useful to make a series of
exposures of a grey card as per the zone system and to compare the effect
of the new variable (only one at a time please!!) with the result of you
old technique/developer/film. Even better would be to measure the densities
of these grey card exposures and see how they differ from standard
densities. In this way a lot can be learned about the effects of
longer/shorter exposure/development. (BTW, I have read that a spotmeter can
be used to measure the density of negatives, but I have not done this
myself as I have other equipment for this.)

Which spot meter is best, was asked. I like one with a very small angle of
measurement. I have an old Minolta spotmeter, but only because the price
was irresistible low at a swap meet some years ago. Any other brand would
probably do for me too. All spot meter adds bulk, and I prefer to have two
Ms in my jacket pockets, and then there is no room for a spot meter.  The
three seconds delay after the spot meter has been turned on seem like
minutes, and then the e.i. Has to be reset every time you turn on the
spotmeter unless you want to us an e.i. of 100. So in addition to being
bulky it is also cumbersome. But the spot meter is helpful in extreme
situations - if you use a bit of zone system thinking with it.

What you can do in extreme situations is to decide in what areas it is
important for you to have full details on the print, and then expose
accordingly. Shortening and lengthening development time, this I do to a
very limited extent only.

A final word, I doubt if you will get all that many better pictures with a
spot meter. Try some bracketing instead.

Regards