Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/12/31
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I tried reducing my lighting over the fixer tray, but it didn't help much. I didn't allow for pupil dialation, but used a foot-candle meter to reduce the level to that of my standard viewing place. Watching the prints during the process there was clearly an increase in highlight detail after the fixing. I haven't tried squegeeing which others have suggested but will do so in my next session. - -----Original Message----- From: Disfromage@aol.com <Disfromage@aol.com> To: leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us> Date: Friday, December 31, 1999 1:36 PM Subject: Re: [Leica] Drydown > >In a message dated 12/31/1999 11:19:01 AM, you wrote: > ><<No clue why it happens, but it seems to. Somewhere recently I read that >drydown was a bunch of hogwash; it had more to do with surface reflection >or something like that and the prink didn't actually darken.>> > >The most useful way I learned to deal with alleged drydown was from Bruce >Barnbaum's book " The Art of Photography". His theory is that there is no >such thing as drydown, but that the phenomenon is simply the fact that your >inspection light is too bright. When you are printing under a safelight, >your pupils are dilated and when you turn on a white inspection light, it >takes a while for your eyes to adjust. If your prints consistently dry too >dark, reduce the wattage of your inspection light until the dried prints look >like the wet ones. After viewing the squeegeed (squeegeeing is very >important!) print under a dim light for a few minutes, it's okay to turn on a >brighter light. Following his advice worked for me. > >Richard Wasserman >