Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/10/25
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I have long been a user of Polaroid PolaPan Instant 35mm film. This produces continuous tone BW transparencies. Developed on Polaroid's proprietary machine, it gives snappy, somewhat grainy (i.e. a little more than Tri-X in D76) images that are very satisfactory for my purposes. This film is exposed through its base, which is noticeably thinner than that of conventional 35mm film (.003 inch compared to .006 inch for Tri-X). The leader is conventional in shape, but has two cut-outs, which fit over dogs in the takeup spool of the developing gadget. Because of the thinness and fragility of the punched-out leader, this film will not load successfully in M4 and later Leicas, because it will not catch in the takeup flower. It can be loaded in M2 and earlier Leicas by securing the leader to the takeup spool with a small piece of black plastic tape. This works fine with screw-mount cameras, but if it is done with an M2, the rapid advance, manipulated at normal speed, rips through the sprocket holes. The solution that has worked for me is to use a pair of double-stroke M3's. The two-stroke advance puts much less stress on the sprocket holes. I run about 200 rolls a year through these cameras. But now I am beginning to have a problem with one of the M3's which I have been told is not soluble. Perhaps a LUGer can help with information. The characteristic failure mode for DS M3's is in the clutch that allows the rapid advance lever to snap back to the start position after the first half frame has been advanced. One of my bodies is beginning to show warning signs (the shutter cannot get through 36 frames without squeaking loudly and the advance lever from time to time gives a hop (as if a gear were slipping a cog) at the end of the first of the two strokes required for advance. I have been told (by what was Leitz Rockleigh and by Essex Camera Repair) that the standard cure for this failure is installation of a one-stroke mechanism. I do not even know if the one-stroke kit is still available. And, I fear that it would rip the sprocket holes of this film as does the M2. Exactly what happens to the two-stroke M3 clutch to make it fail? When experts say repair is not possible, surely they must mean that it is not economically feasible. In the position I am in, I would be willing to pay almost as much for the repair as for a very clean DS M3, i.e. about $1000. Is the fix possible at that price? I am aware that, sooner or later, this operation will have to be switched over to digital, if only because Polaroid will wake up and stop making this film. Until then, I would really like to keep on using my M3's. Help. - -- _RAC Robert A. Carter KB2NTV carter@newark.rutgers.edu 15 Washington St. Newark NJ 07102 +1.973.353.5216