Re: [Leica] Prices on E-Bay

["Bryan Caldwell" <bcaldwell@softcom.net>]

Good deals can be had on EBay - I've gotten a few, Leica and otherwise - but
you have to follow a few guidelines, as you would in any timed auction.

First, do a little research on what you want to buy. If it's something you
can get from a reputable dealer, EBay is not going to be a good deal unless
you pay less than you would from the dealer. There is inherent risk to EBay,
just like there always is buying from a private party, and the price should
reflect that risk. If the item is truly one-of-a-kind, or something you
can't find elsewhere, you have to make a calculated assessment of its value
and stick to that price. For example, I wouldn't buy a used Leica M6 on Ebay
unless I could get it for considerably less than I could get it for from Don
Chatterton or Jim Kuehl or Tamarkin, etc. It just wouldn't be a good deal
unless the price difference offset the risk of dealing with someone unknown
to me.

Second, ask questions in advance. There are as many dissatisfied sellers as
there are buyers. People bid on EBay items and then refuse to pay. They ask
their questions after the auction is over or they wait until after their bid
has won to complain about the shipping costs or the payment terms. Ask
specific questions about things that are important to you. Ask for
additional pictures. Ask for a return privilege. Ask for a copy of a receipt
if the seller advertises that the item has been recently serviced or
overhauled. Do all of this before bidding. Your bid should serve as an
agreement to buy at the seller's stated terms. If you don't like the terms
or the seller has not agreed to modified terms should you win the auction,
don't bid.

Third, check out the history of the seller. If there is negative feedback
ask for his/her side of the story. See if you can contact any previous
dissatisfied buyers. Steer clear of anyone without a track record.

Fourth, if it is an available option, pay by credit card or via an escrow
service. More and more sellers are providing these options. Both offer you
some protections if the item is not as advertised or is not delivered.

Fifth, don't get caught up in the auction as if it were a win-at-all costs
competition. Figure out what something is worth to you and don't bid above
that figure. If it's worth more to someone else - well, that's what auctions
are all about, isn't it?

There are some tremendous opportunities on EBay and other on-line auction
services. But you have to be careful, do your homework and take precautions.
As a seller you can reach a much larger audience of potential buyers than
you ever could by placing a classified ad in any publication. As a buyer you
have access to the goods of more sellers than you could ever find in one
place anywhere in the world. But, you have to know how to play the game and
when to walk away.


Bryan


- ----- Original Message -----
From: 4season <4season@boulder.net>
To: <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Leica] Prices on E-Bay


> "Richard J. Wyble" wrote:
> >
> > Excerpts from leica: 15-Jul-99 [Leica] Prices on E-Bay "Doug
> > Richardson"@medito (1280*)
>
> > Long, long ago in middle-America as a young child I attended numerous
> > country estate auctions with my grandmother. At her side I learned to
> > never *ever* display public interest in any item until actually placing
> > a bid JUST before the final gavel.<snip>
>
> If I were to add anything to that fine advice, I'd suggest not "jumping
> in" on an auction that's about to close, unless you have a very clear
> idea of what you are getting yourself into! Too many descriptions are
> too brief for my taste. Case in point: A few days ago, a late DS M3
> looked like it would be selling for around $520, apparently undented and
> in working order. I was tempted! But what exactly do descriptions like
> "Very good condition, working good" mean? Does "very good" mean "really
> nice", or was it an LHSA "VG" condition, which is ugly? And does
> "working good" mean that it'll take pictures if you avoid slow shutter
> speeds and focus via the distance scale, or that everything is working
> as it should?
>
> Maybe this M3 was a bargain, but there was no time for me to query the
> seller. Let's assume a worst-case scenario, whereby the camera's
> functional, but really needs work:
>
> M3DS, dim RF, deteriorating shutter: $520
> New shutter curtains: $275
> Single-stroke conversion: $150
> RF assembly repair (let's say it can be salvaged, at $300)
> -------------------
> Total: $1245
>
> Now this is a problem, since $1000 will buy me a DS M3 with new top
> plate, refurbished RF and new shutter curtains, done by Leica Germany,
> and maybe $1400 will buy me an Ex++ M6. Suffice to say, I didn't place a
> last-minute bid on the eBay M3!
>
> Jeff
>