Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/04/06
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]John Mc Leod asked for Fred Ward's message about incident/reflected. This is the message Fred sent to the LUG on May, 30th, 1997: >>It must be time again for my annual discertation on reflected-light metering, either by hand or in-camera. Nothing in a Leica or in any other camera is inherently better or worse than any other reflected-light meter (either hand-held or built into the camera). All such devices are today some variant of a spot meter.... you get a narrow angle reading. All reflected-light readings are only approximations of a proper reading for skin tones. If your subject is a gray card, you will get superb results. If you are not photographing a gray card and want to photograph a portrait or a general scene, then you will hit just about the right exposure just about 80% of the time (according to most researchers who test such arcane things). Leica is no better and no worse than anyone else with a through-the-lens meter or with a meter sitting on top of the camera. In fact there is nothing whatsoever unique or superior about the Leica metering concept. (The cameras that are usually derided on this list, the Canon EOS and Nikon SLR, actually have a far superior through-the-lens metering system based on a computerized matrix that sense the individual aspects of every shot.) The Leica metering concept is extremely simple, mundane, workmanlike, and direct. It does the job, nothing more, nothing less. The problem here is not Leica or anyone else. It is conceptual. The photographic world long ago decided that the average scene in nature reflects 18% of the light hitting it. So, camera manufacturers made and make meters to measure for 18% reflectance. If you are lucky enough to either happen on an 18% scene, or photograph gray cards (which are made to be 18% reflective), then you get the right exposure. If not, then your pictures will be over- or under-exposed. It cannot be otherwise. The clever, lucky, or skilled photographer will point his TTL or attached meter to something he thinks is average in brightness. He will avoid black or white objects. The amateur will point and shoot and hope for the best. It is a testimonial to Kodak and Fuji that most of the resulting images will be OK.... not great, but satisfactory. (If you do not believe the above, then I suggest you use slide film and take a TTL reading of a white wall and make a picture, then do the same of a black wall and make a picture. And then take an incident light reading and make the same two pictures. Once you do this and if accurate exposures are important to you, those will be the last pictures you will ever make by taking reflected light readings. The only way to get professional exposure results day in and day out in every situation except photographing stained-glass windows or other light-emitting sources is to use a hand-held incident light meter.) For any old-timers on this list, this is my 1997 recitation of this truism. You can relax and be sure you will not see this again until 1998 or beyond. Fred Ward<< Best regards Ernesto