[Leica] Re Developers, cabbages and Kings

["Dan Post" <dwpost@email.msn.com>]

Dear constant readers:
I have been using two divided formulae, one actually a D-76 formula with the
borax mixed separately in a second bath and a similar formulation used in
tropical areas where it can be used from 65-85 ddegrees Fahrenheit. Both are
from the 1947 U.S. Rubber Chemistry and Physics Handbook, which at the time
contained many photgraphic formulae.
1- Metol-Hydroquinone Automatic System ( Two Solutions)
Solution A:
Water                                1 litre
Metol                                  6.5 g
Sodium Sulfite (anh.)        50 g
Hydroquinone                    6.5 g

Solution B:
Saturated solution of Borax

To mix A take one half of the water add the metol; when dissolved, add 1/2
the sulfite.
To the other half of the water, hot, dissolve the other half of the sulfite,
and when done, add the hydroquinone. Cool and add to the first part of
solution A.

To use, add solution A to film without pre-rinse, agitate normally. Develope
for at least two minutes. Drain but do not rinse, and add solution B to tank
and agitate normally. Develope in B for at least two minutes after filling
tank. Drain, rinse and fix. Stop bath not recommended. Should give a gamma
of about .7
In order to keep whites clear, and depending on the film, the source
recommends adding a few drops of a saturated solution of potassium bromide
to the solution A, but only if needed as it cuts the film speed. For Tri-X
and Plus-X, I never had to add any. This stuff keeps forever! I use a whoosh
of Dust-off to put an inert layer of gas on top of the fluid level of my
bottles- I had some of this that was three years old, and gave beautiful
results.
 I did test it with T-Max 400, shot at E.I. s from 160 to 1600- Everyone of
the negatives were printable! They were thin but checking the density of the
grey card area with an X-rite densitometer, all frames were the same! I
printed them on color paper at work, and all the squares on the Kodak Grey
Scale were represented! I'd like to try it with real B&W paper in my
darkroom ( If I ever get it finished!)


The other formula, the true D-76 formula, is as follows:
solution A:
Water, 125 degree F.                    750 ml
Metol                                                    2 g
Sodium Sulfit (anh.)                        100 g
Hydroquinone                                      5 g
Then add enough water to make 1 litre of developer.

Solution B:

Instead of the 2 g of granular borax that the regular D-76 calls for, make a
saturated solution of Borax as in the above formula.

Use the same developing procedure as the "Automatic System".


Another good formula is a Metol-Hydroquinone, Rapid (Tropical) Developer
or Agfa-64

Clean working developer for rapid development at higher temperatures.
Water, hot- 125 deg.F                        750 ml
Metol (Elon)                                            2.5 g
Sodium Sulfite (anh.)                             25 g
Hydroquinone                                        6.5 g
Sodium Carbonate, monohydrated*   16 g
Potassium Bromide                               1 g
Water to make 1 litre of solution.

*Arm and Hammer Washing Soda can be used, but must be heated in a glass pan
to drive off the excess moisture.
this developer can be used for 3-4 minutes at 65 degrees or 2-3 minutes at
85 degrees.

I used these formulae early on, as I used to use my grandmother's bathroom
as a darkroom, and that was Before Air Conditioning! They have stayed in
good stead for years, though I still think that replenished D-76 is pretty
close to perfection. I like to think of God using a Leica and developing his
Tri-X in D-76, and printing it on Ilford Multigrade Pearl!

dwpost@msn.com