Tri-X @ 200

[ted grant <75501.3002@compuserve.com>]

Oldleica wrote:

<<<<< Has anyone tried this and does anyone have any suggetstions of
film/developer
combinations for B&W.>>>>>>>

FWIW:

I'm an old time B&W shooter and have always kept film development and
printig very simple,  (KISS)  keep it simple stupid) :) So my suggestions
may not cut it with some folks.

First of all the "zone system" isn't worth a damn for shooting on 35mm film
unless every frame is shot identically under the same conditions of light,
contrast and the many other variables that effect an exposure.

I've seen spectatcular prints made from using the zone system, but each has
come from a single sheet of film "developed individually". Not 36 frames at
the same time.

Look keep it simple!  Kodak spends millions in R&D, millions of
photographers shoot the film at what it is rated at and they produce
excellent negatives and prints. 

At one time I used Tri-x exculusively, then switched to Tmax films and Tmax
developer. I soup Tmax 400 at 6 minutes at 75 degrees. Vigorously agitate
for the first 15 secs. then 4 inversions of the tank at each 30 sec. mark. 
Produces beautiful negatives and 16X20 prints some folks would kill to have
the same quality.

Obviously if I use Tmax 100 or 3200 I use the Kodak timing as they list for
the 75 degree temp.

If you use Tmax developer at 75 degrees it gives the best results due to
the viscosity of the developer. Cooler temps do not allow the developer to
work as well on the emultion as at the higher temp.

I have great admiration for Ansel and his technologies, but only where it
applies to single sheet film. (Again I'm going to get nuked here!) 

My way isn't the be all to end all and neither is Ansel's, but you asked
for how other folks do their thing in the darkroom.

ted

Having said this I am most certainly already in trouble with some folks.