Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1997/06/08

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Subject: Noctilux
From: Bob Parsons <bobp@dodo.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 16:16:52 +0100

As you all have probably gathered I'm enthusiastic about this lens.
However I hope I'm also a realist. This lens costs a lot of money.
To be fair I need to temper my enthusiasm with some facts about the
compromises you make when purchasing such an optic. Whether these are
acceptable or not is very personal.

Here's the downside: :(

1. It's expensive. I'd suggest anyone contemplating purchase seriously
   look at obtaining a second hand one. As far as I know the optical
   design of the f1:1.2 hasn't changed since its introduction. The only
   difference between the old and the new with inbuilt lens hood is the
   mount. In the UK a second hand one is just over half price. If you
   don't like it, it can be traded in without too much loss.

2. At full aperture there is light fall off at the corners (up to 3 stops
   so I read). By f2.0-2.8 this has gone. For B&W work I try to make sure
   I don't underexpose and use a film that has a substantial toe to it's
   curve, like TRI-X. I've also found TMAX 400 developed in XTOL, as per
   Kodak data sheet, works well. XTOL seems to overcome the short toe on
   T Grain films.

3. At full aperture focused light sources away from the center of the
   frame do show coma. Unfocused ones don't

4. It weighs 630g and there is a lot of glass that can be easily knocked.

5. The lens hood (built in version) obscures about 18% of the 50mm frame
   area. On the earlier version the detachable lens hood has a cutout and
   may be better in this respect.

6. I believe the decison between contrast and resolution was based on
   the performance of 400 ASA films available at the time. Improvements in
   film technology may mean that decision is no longer optimum. Good reason
   to look out for Photokina 1998?. When stopped down I don't think the
   contrast or resolution quite matches that of standard lenses.

7. Minimum focusing distance is 1 metre. You can't take "close ups" unless
   you are prepared to enlarge a section of the negative or transparency.
   (When you do though it's well worth it for the restricted DOF effects at
   full aperture).

It's important to remember what the lens was designed for and ask the
question "how well does it meet that objective" for the Noctilux the answer
is very well indeed IMHO. There's no other way.

Bob Parsons <bobp@dodo.demon.co.uk>