[Leica] Developing E-4 Ektachrome at home

[Ted Grant]

The only thing I can add to this is?
Depending how old the film is will depend if you have any images at all? Even depending on your processing? WHY? 
Simply depending on the radiation factor of planet Earth and time the film was exposed until today? The radiation can or might have destroyed your images.
Many photogs have no idea about Planet Earths' radiation factor and it's effect on long time exposure to it. Yep it's there 24 hours a day and we? YES US the shooters with cameras and film are subjected to it daily!!
I suppose as I have been told you can give it a try? however others have offered in processing? MAYBE YOU'LL GET LUCKY????"
good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
cheers,
Dr.Ted Grant O.C.

-----Original Message-----
From: LUG [mailto:lug-bounces+tedgrant=shaw.ca at leica-users.org] On Behalf Of Don Dory via LUG
Sent: June-20-18 8:47 AM
To: Leica Users Group
Cc: Don Dory
Subject: Re: [Leica] Developing E-4 Ektachrome at home

My suggestion would be to use an extreme compensating developer say Rodinal
1/100 with no agitation.  Memory tells me that the chromes have extreme
contrast that needs to be moderated.  Also, after all this time latent
images will be weak and lots of fog.

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018, 10:43 AM Howard L Ritter Jr <hlritter at twc.com> wrote:

> I’ve read that E-4 and E-6 processes are very different, and that E-4 film
> will be ruined by E-6 processing. For one thing, E-4 film needs a
> pre-hardening step that E-6 doesn’t employ, to keep the emulsion from
> detaching from the film base. I think this might be the main obstruction to
> home processing.
>
> It’s been surprisingly unfruitful to google this topic.
>
> —howard
>
> > On Jun 20, 2018, at 07:48, John McMaster <john at mcmaster.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > AFAIR, E4 was lower temperature than E6 - many decades since I shot
> Kodak colour IR ;-)
> >
> > john
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: LUG [mailto:lug-bounces+john=mcmaster.co.uk at leica-users.org] On
> Behalf Of Montie via LUG
> > Sent: 20 June 2018 08:23
> > To: lug at leica-users.org
> > Cc: Montie
> > Subject: Re: [Leica] Developing E-4 Ektachrome at home
> >
> > If it were me, I'd be shopping around for a single shot E-6 kit
> (Formulary, B&H, etc.) There may be some still around. I'm thinkin E-4 film
> will render a usable image (if properly exposed) processed in E-6.
> > Could be wrong, again, it's been decades...But something to check on. ;-/
> >
> > Montie
> >
> >
> >>> Does anyone know anything about home processing of E-4 Ektachrome as a
> B&W negative?
> >
> > My brother just came across Dad’s old View-Master stereo camera, opened
> the back, and discovered that it had a partially exposed roll of film in
> it. He sent the camera to me and I figured out how to rewind the film.
> (Thank you, Mike Butkus at Orphan Cameras, butkus.org <http://butkus.org/>)
> When I took it out, I found that it’s process E-4 Ektachrome, which I was
> told was marketed from 1963-74. I suspect the film was shot toward the
> early part of that period. I’d like to see what images of me and my sibs
> might be on it.
> >
> > It can be processed at some expense by several commercial labs, but
> they’ll develop it as a B&W negative. I’d think this could be done at home,
> since it’s the color and the reversal that take the exotic chemicals and
> the technique, correct? I know there’s a caveat about the need for
> hardening of the emulsion of E-4 film prior to processing, so this might
> make it impossible to do at home.
> >
> > Any instructions, experiences, or guidance appreciated.
> >
> > BTW, I’m running a roll of Ilford Delta 100, the highest ASA the camera
> is calibrated for – and it goes down to ASA 4, for original Kodachrome! –
> through it now. It might yield some interesting images for those who can
> fuse stereo pairs by staring at them onscreen. If so, I’ll post them.
> >
> > (This camera has an innovative system with linked ASA, shutter speed,
> and aperture dials, calibrated for subject brightness and for illumination
> level – and even for summer or winter! – obviating the need for a light
> meter. As I recall, it was quite effective even with the slide film that it
> had to use. It had fixed-focus lenses and a viewfinder that incorporated a
> spirit level below the field of view, as leveling is critical for a stereo
> camera. A flash attachment with its own built-in split-image rangefinder
> for determining the correct aperture setting was available. Because the
> stereo effect was more pronounced the closer the subject, two degrees of
> close-up lenses were available, going down to 20". Conceptually and
> mechanically, it’s a fascinating camera and system.)
> >
> >
> > —howard
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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>
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