[Leica] Just back from Cuba

Sat Dec 20 10:44:12 PST 2014

No need for vaccinations. There is an effective, if basic, health care system in place. I can’t remember seeing any sick people. I did notice that a lot of people choose to use natural and homeopathic medicines rather than pharmaceuticals. That, combined with the fact that they are not sedentary, eat virtually no processed foods, and that almost all vegetables are organically produced, no doubt contributes to their good health.

Your US cell phone will not work in Cuba at all, unless you can find some WiFi. Expect to pay around 4-5 CUC per hour for WiFi when you can find it at all. Cell phones with carriers based in other parts of the world will work, but it is very expensive - on the order of 4 Euro per minute for Eurozone based phones. I chose to think of it as a welcome opportunity to be offline for a while and live in the moment. If I went on my own, I’d just hire a local ground operator to do the logistics.

Cuba has two currencies: The Cuban Peso and the Convertible Peso, called the “CUC”. The exchange rates were roughly 90 CUC per $100 or 130 CUC for 100 Euros. That is a rough approximation; I can’t remember exactly. There is a 15% surcharge when converting dollars to the CUC or Cuban Peso, so it is best to bring Euros for which there is no surcharge at the airport or local “cadecas". I called my local bank and asked for Euros, which they delivered to the branch within 3 days.

When you change money, be sure to get some Cuban Pesos, about 25 of which are worth 1 CUC. Around 600-700 Cuban Pesos per week is more than enough. Having some Cuban Pesos is handy for buying street food, sandwiches here and there, coffee from the ladies selling it out of their homes early in the morning when you’re walking around, etc. For example, you can buy a Cuban sandwich (ham, cheese and maybe some pork) from a local shop for around 30 Cuban Pesos that will cost you 3 CUC in a restaurant catering to tourists. And you are probably more likely to get sick in in the latter.

Because we were on a people to people license, all our hotels and transport were pre-paid. Not including shopping, my wife and I spent the equivalent of around $1500 Euros for incidentals (mostly food, drink, taxis, etc) over a 3 week period in both CUC and Cuban Pesos.

—Jim

On Dec 20, 2014, at 12:28 PM, Steve Barbour <steve.barbour at gmail.com> wrote:

> while we are at it.....?
> 
> Need for vaccinations, boosters, ? typhoid, diptheria, pertussis, hepatitis, other ?
> 
> Risk of  cholera, yellow fever, malaria ?
> 
> Cell phone considerations, needs, settings ? can you use standard (US) cell phones, settings, need to turn off roaming ?
> 
> Money needs ? euros only ? any need for dollars ?
> 
> Other?
> 
> many thanks,
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 20, 2014, at 8:02 AM, Jim Laurel <jplaurel at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I just flew in from Havana. Here’s the scoop from the airport on the way home...
>> 
>> First of all, people from all over the world have been visiting Cuba for some time now. European chains are building high end resorts along the coast. We visited under the “People to people cultural exchange” Treasury exception, but many Americans choose to visit illegally.
>> 
>> The Cuban people have suffered under both the embargo and the regime. Many people expressed elation on Wednesday after the big announcement, as if diplomatic relations and trade with the USA and more tourists would actually help their plight. Well, it’s a start. Maybe it will lead to internal change, but who knows. The Cubans are taking a wait and see attitude. They are smart enough to know that the President’s power is limited and only Congress can act to end the embargo altogether. The Cubans are a warm, beautiful and welcoming people. By and large, they love Americans and get visibly excited when you tell them you’re from the USA. Many reacted as if we were old friends coming home again. And, that’s pretty much the case. For the Americans among you, there is absolutely no reason to fear for your security in Cuba.
>> 
>> Cuba must proceed slowly because they simply aren’t ready for the crush of visitors that would come if the travel restrictions were dropped altogether. The infrastructure is barely adequate as it is in the main cities, let alone the smaller towns. There is construction all over Havana. Many streets are torn up as they install better sewage, water and electrical systems. Many of the old neighborhoods are being gentrified. At times, you think you’re somewhere in Spain or Italy. It will take time.
>> 
>> I must disagree with Duane, who said that there isn’t much between Havana and Santiago. In fact, most of my favorite places in Cuba are Camaguey, Remedios, Holguin, Baracoa, and around Guantanamo province.
>> 
>> The time to visit Cuba is NOW. This thaw between the US and Cuba will result in huge changes for Cuba. The time capsule has been cracked for some time and now it’s set to break wide open. It won’t be long before the iconic Chevys, Plymouths, Fords, Ladas and DeSotos that are so visually synonymous with Cuba are replaced with Chinese Geelys and Cherrys.
>> 
>> I had to laugh when I read the Cuba thread with all the talk about how to remain unobtrusive, carrying Feds and old Leicas. You’ve got to remember that you’re dealing with an urbane and sophisticated people here. The general level of education is very high. Don’t be surprised to learn that your waiter has an advanced degree. The truth is that, just by walking down the street in your latest adventure travel wear, with your pasty white skin and your half-forgotten high school Spanish, you’re going to stand out like a sore thumb. Throw in a Domke vest and Black Rapid dual harness and the picture is complete.
>> 
>> Everybody seems to carry a canvas satchel of some kind, so a simple Domke satchel would be good. I used a ThinkTalk Retrospective 7, which was just the perfect size for walking around all day. I carried my M240 with one lens (usually the 35mm Summilux), and my E-M1 with Oly 12-40 f/2.8, Pana 35-100 f/2.8 and PanaLeica 25 f/1.4. To be honest, I would have saved a lot of trouble if I had just gone with my pair of EM-1s, which would have saved me a lot of lens changing. Just walking around with no bag and the M240 with a single lens was very nice too. You are limited to 2 camera bodies and a total of 10 accessories (the 2 bodies count as part of your allowance of 10, along with tripods, lenses, strobes, etc.)
>> 
>> We spent long days walking many of the smaller towns. Light weight is key. The weight of the M240 compared to my old M6s is significant. I found that I mostly used my E-M1, which proved to be a wonderful companion. Light weight, rugged, extremely fast in operation, with the fastest autofocus of any camera I’ve used, it is probably my favorite camera ever. When I was able to nail it with the Leica, the results were gorgeous, but nailing it with consistency was the problem. The E-M1, by contrast was always reliable. Pin sharp details and perfect exposure in almost every condition. Toward the end, I started getting lazy and began using face detection set to focus on the closest eye. Amazing.
>> 
>> Here’s the bottom line for photographing in Cuba.
>> - You’re going to be walking ALOT, so keep it light
>> - The edge light is beautiful, don’t forget at least one fast prime in 35mm or 50mm
>> - Carry a small satchel
>> - Gather and hoard your small coins. You always need them.
>> - Wear regular clothes, not adventure wear
>> - Get a tan
>> - Learn some Spanish and use it
>> - Be open and don’t be afraid to talk to people. Doors will open for you.
>> - Bring your smart phone to show people pictures of your family.
>> - Don’t be obsessed with maximizing your photo taking time. Relax and sit with people, talk to them. Prioritize human contact over photography.
>> - Be generous. It’s appreciated and needed.
>> 
>> One more thing. People are freezing cold during winter. Gather up your old jackets and long sleeve shirts and take them with you. Especially fleece jackets. People need them as it can get pretty cold.
>> 
>> I’ll post some images when I get home.
>> 
>> Merry Christmas to all of you!
>> 
>> —Jim Laurel
>> 
>> 
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