Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2012/06/26
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]It suggests that the Fuji conversion is doing some sharpening in the processing. Is the processing going on in the camera or in the computer after you take the chip out of the camera? Does the Fuji image produce a 16 Bit Fuji proprietary image (or a TIF) or a PSD file? I'd be curious. Ed -----Original Message----- From: lug-bounces+ekowaleski=twmi.rr.com at leica-users.org [mailto:lug-bounces+ekowaleski=twmi.rr.com at leica-users.org] On Behalf Of Richard Taylor Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 11:36 AM To: Leica Users Group Subject: Re: [Leica] Using the Fuji X Pro-1 Ed - I can't make a comparison to the Nikon RAW processor since I've never used it. The Fuji RAW processor--at least on the few images I've tried it with--seems to produce slightly sharper images but they have noticeable splotchy color noise that I do not see using the Adobe RAW converter. The splotchy noise isn't at all bad, but it is noticeable and I'd rather not see it at all. I convert all my RAW files to DNG on import just as you do. The camera will be with me when I go to Maine and by then we should know whether or not it's going to be a useful platform for my neglected Leica lenses. Regards, Dick On Jun 26, 2012, at 11:56 AM, Edward Kowaleski wrote: > Thanks for the update. I'm looking forward to handling it when I see > you in Bar Harbor. > > Do you have an opinion of the quality of images generated from DNG > files that have been converted from proprietary Fuji or Nikon RAW > files? I know you find the conversion a little (or lots) longer but > is there any qualitative difference? > > I have been converting all my Panasonic or Nikon RAW images to DNG as > soon as I take the chip out of the camera. It makes subsequent > processing and storage simpler (to me) and keeps all my RAW files on > one platform which I feel confident that Adobe will maintain similar to their Acrobat PDF files. > I'd appreciate your thoughts on this. > > Ed > > -----Original Message----- > From: lug-bounces+ekowaleski=twmi.rr.com at leica-users.org > [mailto:lug-bounces+ekowaleski=twmi.rr.com at leica-users.org] On Behalf > Of Richard Taylor > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 8:29 AM > To: Leica Users Group > Subject: [Leica] Using the Fuji X Pro-1 > > I've had my X Pro-1 for two weeks now and in thought you might be > interested in my impressions of the camera. There are many images on > line testifying to its excellent image quality at low and high ISO so > I'm not going to add more--at least for now. What they show is all > true, though, in my experience. > > If you've been following the discussions about the camera, not all of this > will be new to you. > > In a nutshell, it is the most M-like digital camera I've yet run across. > The aperture dial is on the lens where it belongs, ditto for the > shutter speed dial and exposure correction dials on the body, and you > can set the Fn button to bring up ISO settings, so everything you're > likely to need in routine shooting is right out in the open. The body > is just a bit smaller than the M9 and weighs about half as much. > > With the Fujinon lenses, focus is just like the Leica, except it's > automatic. Aim the focus rectangle in the OVF at the point you want > in focus, half press the shutter, watch the frame lines jump into > place, reframe if necessary and shoot. Perfect! When you're close in > you've got to use the lower right focus rectangle to correct for > parallax, but otherwise the procedure is the same. Focus speed is > more than fast enough, but nowhere near as fast as my Panasonic GX-1. > > If you place the focus rectangle correctly, the focus will be spot-on. > > OTH, the camera, despite the inclusion of a "Multi-Spot" mode, really > doesn't have one as far as I've can tell. If you put it in > Multi-Spot, it will choose the single most contrasty spot in the frame > to focus on, whether it's your subject's eye or a lightbulb in the far > corner of the frame. I don't see why this method would work under any > circumstances, but maybe one of you can enlighten me. > > The only way you can shoot from the hip is to lock focus on an > appropriate middle distance and stop way down, again just as you would do with an M. > > I can see the frames lines and data in the OVF with my regular glasses on. > If I'm wearing polarizing sunglasses and holding the camera horizontally, > though, I can't either in the OVF or anything at all in the EVF. With the > LCD on the camera back it's the other way around. It's readable with > the camera horizontal, but not vertical. > > Opinions can differ on this of course, but for my purposes LR 4 does a > better job of processing the RAW files than the Fuji RAW converter does. > There is less blotchy chroma noise and sharpness is almost as good. > OTH, converting the RAW files to DNG and importing them into LR seems > to take forever, maybe 3-4 times as long as it takes to import files from my D300. > > The only thing about the camera that drives me nuts is the power switch. > Whoever designed it needs to go in for some remedial work on detent design. > Even the slightest brush of the hand or the side of a camera bags turns the > camera on. Bad, bad, bad. > > > Regards, > > Dick > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information _______________________________________________ Leica Users Group. See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information