Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2010/03/13
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]> Ric, IF your grey card is completely neutral then you would get a correct > setting for the light that was falling on that, yes. > Grey cards are not always neutral (being originally intended for that > overall tonal level rather than white balance) and of course as you said > the > light will vary across the area in a case like this. > > You can consider shooting one frame with a WHIBAL card or similar in it and > then set your WB from that in LR or ACR, using that to synchronise all of > your shots. I do that for portraits. > http://www.rawworkflow.com/ > Really most of these methods work best in studio situations or where you > have controlled conditions of course. > What I was trying to point out was that auto WB in your camera often makes > a > good guess at what you need and that you can change it afterwards in Raw > with no penalty. Later firmware for your M8 improved its WB performance > also. Having the same setting in developing that you found acceptable for > one frame can then be used to make the others consistent. > Cheers > Geoff > http://www.pbase.com/hoppyman ClearWhite, ExpoDisc Neutral, Lally CAP, Mennon and Phoxle SpectraSnap White Balance Filters you can put over your lens to get a White balance reading which may turn out to be more accurate and much more convenient than the use of gray cards. I'm going to try them out. I knew a guy who swore by them and he seemed pretty smart and I saw some of his shots. http://www.ppmag.com/web-exclusives/2008/11/product-comparison-white-balan-1 .html or http://tinyurl.com/5bgfy3 People also used to use a thing like this to make an incident reading in stead of a reflective with their cameras light meters. [Rabs] Mark William Rabiner