Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2006/09/05
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]They are also $25,000 or more. For that kind of money they had better be better than film. ;-) Gene -------------- Original message from "animal" <s.jessurun95@chello.nl>: -------------- > What I do know is that the latest LF digital backs outclass film in > dynamic > range. > A Sinar brochure mentiones 14 stops with the cooled back. > best > simon jessurun > > > > > Ok, I got lucky. Googled and got this on the 1st or 2nd hit. (Apologies > > if > > the formattng gets screwy below.) > > > > Here's a longish quote I want to examine: "The best way to remove noise > > is > > not to create them in the first place. To me, it means ISO100 as much as > > possible > > and don't underexpose by too much (I do want to remind everybody about > > erring > > on the underexposure side still holds, just don't overdo it). When > > contrast is high, > > use fill flash or reflector if possible.... I group noise into 2 > > catagories, shadow noise > > and long exposure noise. Shadow noise is a general low level noise that > > spreads out > > in dark areas. [snip] Note that shadow noise could happen in brightly > > lit > > photos, it > > could lurk in dark shadows, or one of the other color channels (for > > example, blue > > channel on a red subject)." > > > > Ok, this does correspond to my own digi experiences over the past two > > years > > (including the blue channel noise thing, interesting). > > > > Does anyone else think that this is *completely* retarded? > > > > He says clearly that very well exposed pictures can have oodles of noise > > "in the > > shadows." So if there are shadows, use fill flash if possible. > > > > Huh!?!?!? > > > > So, think of Wynn Bullock's photographs with those beautiful and > > seemingly > > infinite shades of black and gray, and then something in the composition > > that > > soars from the shadows toward paper white (not necessarily getting > > there). > > > > http://www.laurencemillergallery.com/images/bullock_real38.jpg > > > > This looks crappy compared to the LensWork reproduction. But it's just > > an > > example, and I hope it will sufficiently illustrate the point. I'm sure > > most > > of us can think of other beautifully toned, "nearly all shadows" kinds > > of > > fine > > art photographs. > > > > One more very important detail. I've done noise reduction for shadow > > noise. > > It *softens* things up quite a bit. Often doesn't matter. But I'm > > talking now > > about photos where there is lots of *very sharp*, important detail on > > the > > "shadow side" of the histogram. > > > > In fact, sometimes nearly all the important detail can be in the > > shadows. > > > > http://www.laurencemillergallery.com/images/bullock_real15.jpg > > > > This doesn't *quite* illustrate this point, but it's pretty close, and > > we > > can > > all recall the myriad fine art pictures of black-to-dark rocks. > > Sharp, sharp, sharp. We're talking LF 4x5 or 8x10 sharp. So throwing > > alot of blur or any other technique that will compromise the sharpness > > and detail of the shadowy objects would most often be completely > > unacceptable. > > > > > > So gosh, were he a digi shooter, I guess we'd have to advise Mr. Bullock > > to use fill flash. > > > > This is a joke, right? Come on, I'm LMAO, have a chuckle along me. > > > > If the quote above is true, a digital camera would be nearly unsuitable > > for any > > serious art photography where the shadow side of the histogram is where > > all > > the action is. It would only be good for vaction pics of the Taj Mahal, > > some > > happy snaps using fill flash and other brightly lit scenes - or PJ work > > where > > no one cares. > > > > Yeah, I'm exagerating again :-) > > > > So this is my question. > > > > With a DSLR, can one take "oodles of shades of gray" style pictures, or > > even > > pictures where sharp objects in shadows dominate or significantly > > complement > > a well lit subject???? Like a nude on lovely black wet rocks, just for > > example. > > > > If you made it this far, many thanks. > > > > I'd love to be told that I've got some blind spot, that I'm missing > > something > > very basic and fundamental. > > > > Or, I'd love to be told that the above quote is hogwash. (Not likely) > > > > Better yet, I'd love to be clued into some by now well known and well > > worn > > technique for making beautiful, sharp "shadowy" pictures with a DSLR. > > > > I appreciate any insight or advice anyone has to offer. > > > > Scott > > > > -- > > Pics @ http://www.adrenaline.com/snaps > > Leica M6TTL, Bessa R, Nikon FM3a, Nikon D70, Rollei AFM35 > > (Jihad Sigint NSA FBI Patriot Act) > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Leica Users Group. > > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information