Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/05/07
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Guy I agree that there is some latitude left to alter the stop or shutter speed. My point (albeit badly made) was that if I don't know if the baseline measurement is accurate, I cannot know what changes to make to get a preferred exposure for the wall. I have decided however to stop pointing my new M6 at white walls until I understand him a bit better. Simon Guy Bennett wrote: > >Hi > > > >I have been using my M6 for a few days now and I have a question. I > >pointed the camera at a whitewashed textured wall, with ISO 400 Tri-X > >loaded, a 50mm f/2 attached and with the film speed dial set to 400, and > >the red dot appeared when the camera was set to a shutter speed of > >1000/sec at f/13 or f/14 (whatever the half stop between f/11 and f/16 > >is on the lens). I pointed my Nikon F5 at the same spot on the same > >wall using an ISO 400 speed and an 85mm f/1.8 lens and, using spot > >metering (therefore switching off any colour metering capability), it > >registered settings of 400/sec at f/10. > > > >There is a significant difference here and I wondered if anyone could > >explain to me the reasons for the difference in metering and subsequent > >camera set-up. I have always trsuted the F5 meter and it has never been > >anything other than spot on. I am sure the M6 meter is equally > >accurate. However, given that I would probably want to dial in some > >overexposure on the white wall to get the whiteness and texture on the > >film, I do not have any f/stops or shutter speed left to enable me to > >overexpose by 1 or 1.5 stops. > > > >Simon > > simon, > > i'm not sure why the readings are different, and i can see by previous > responses that no one seems to know for sure. but, like henning pointed > out, to overexpose, you simply open up the aperture or use a slower shutter > speed, and you've got plenty of both of those options left on the m in the > situation you described. > > changing the iso, as some one pointed out, does *not* change your exposure; > it merely gives another reading of the scene. you still have to manually > change the aperture or shutter speed for the compensation you want, and if > you still need to do that, there doesn't seem to be much of a reason to > change the iso in the first place. > > what ho! > > guy