Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/11/11
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Robert- Generally speaking, and like all generalities, there are exceptions! So, in general terms, a compensating developer is one that can compensate for under exposure and overdevelopment which can lead to high contrast. Usually they are dilute developers- the developer in the more exposed areas of the negative is exhausted first while the developer in the less exposed areas continue to work- the result is that highlight are not blocked, or not blocked as much, and the shadow areas continue to develop building density, with less overall contrast. Another factor that tends to make compensating developers seem to have more acutance; this is because the areas of greater development, i.e. highlight or areas of higher density generate by products, usually bromide ions that inhibit the development of lower density areas immediately adjacent- this gives a very sharply delineated effect, hence the higher acutance. You mention using D-76; this is a very good developer developed for motion picture film in the early part of this century. I can be used as a compensating developer, or as a developer with compensating qualities... here is how to do it. It requires some tests, but basically you reduce the time in the developer by about 10-15%, and then, after pouring out the developer, add water and let the film sit there, with just the developer remaining in the film working for about 2-3 minutes. Stop and fix as usual. I've used this method for shots taken out in bright sunlight with deep shadows and was able to print on 1 1/2 to 2 grade filters.- experiment! Shoot lots of film. Get a couple of hundred feet of a film, like Delta 100, Tri-X or whatever, load it up and shoot some pictures! Practice and keep notes. After a while you have a base of information so that you can develop the film for whatever conditions you shoot under. No really a 'zone' system, but it goes a long way in making printable negatives consistently. To me, Tri-X or Agfa APX400 in Rodinal, D-76 or Diafine are all I really need- and I have been using at least the Tri-X long enough (30+ years) to feel comfortable in shooting under all sorts of conditions! Basically, you should get to know the characteristics of your film and developer combination as well as you know the controls on your camera... Okay- so much for form! Content? you are gonna hafta talk to someone else! My photos are technically good, but I at age 52, I am still working on 'developing' an 'eye'! Sorry for such a long post! Dan dwpost@msn.com