Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1997/08/29
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]At 10:29 AM 29/08/1997 -0400, you wrote: >Dear Fellow LUGnuts, > >The topic of corrective eye piece lenses has come up. Maybe I can help a >bit with this. > >Many new design SLR cameras come with a diopter adjustment built into the >eye piece. The R8 is a good example. Pull out the tiny wheel to the let of >the eye piece, turn it to the correction you need and push it back in so it >locks into place. Usually the corrective range is -2.00 diopters to +2.00 >diopters. If you are farsighted (hyperopic) you need plus (+) corrective >lenses. If you are nearsighted (myopic) you need minus (-) corrective >lenses. That's the easy part. > >If you have astigmatism, it means that the front part of your eye (the >cornea) is not a perfect spherical shape. It is shaped more like the back >of a spoon or the side of football - but not as severe as this. Most >things in nature are not perfect shapes. Even under the best of >circumstances, it is hard to grind a perfectly spherical surface. The >larger the lens, the more difficulty invovlved. Best example of this is >the mirror in the Hubble space telescope. Even a price tag of millions of >dollars couldn't produce a perfectly curved mirror. NASA had to send up a >pair of "glasses" to correct the optics. They never asked me to to make >this house call. Interesting thought but probably not covered by their HMO >insurance ;-) > >With astigmatic corrective lenses, you must not only deal with the strength >of the lens but also the orientation. Orientation is described as the axis >and is expressed in degress (starting at 0 and going up to 180.) An >astigmatic prescription is then expressed as -1.00 diopter X 180 so that it >describes the strength (-1.00 diopter) and orientation (axis 180). The >astigmatic eye piece corrective lens must be turned and locked into the >correct position. If it gets turned even 10 degrees from where it should >be, your vision will be blurred. Make sure that the eye piece is marked so >you know the final orientation on the camera. This way the optician can >insert the lens so when you tighten the eye piece ring, it lines up the >proper way. > >When you go to many commercial (Glasses In An Hour) optical shops, the >folks that work there can do some things very well and very quick. But not >camera corrective lenses. All spectacle lenses start out as a large (72mm >or larger diameter) and are cut down in a computerized edger to fit in your >frame. The newest Japanese computerized edgers are fabulous and cost about >$28,000. I have one at the office. A high school student could run it. >It even gives you voice prompts. The automated edging or grinding >instruments are not set up to make lenses 8-10 mm in diameter for eye >pieces. So it must be HAND edged. That means the optical technician must >be skilled and have an interest in doing this. The optician must then >grind a lens from about 72mm diameter down to 10mm and get the orientation >correct when he pops it into the eye piece retaining ring. It can be done >but I would recommend seeking the help of an older and wiser optician in >your area. I'm 43. If you could find an optician in his 60's, it would be >perfect. If you can find a private shop or an optometrist who employs a >skilled optician, you are more likely to meet with success. Its similar >that you can't go to McDonalds and get a prime rib steak. It is real >specialty work. > >I hope this has shed some light on a somewhat confusing topic. > >Happy shooting, > >Richard >---------------------- >Richard Clompus, OD >West Chester, PA, USA > Thanks Richard for your very interesting information. And another great example of the type of message that makes the LUG a really substantial and useful forum for Leica photographers. Gerard Captijn.