Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/11/29
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]> I used Xtol exclisively a few years back. Here are some tips to get > consistent results. > > 1) Only buy the 5 litre kit. The smaller kits had quality control > problems which resulted in exhausted developer. The 1 liter kits are no longer available. > > 2.) When diluting use at least 100ml of full strength Xtol per roll > of film. You can sometimes get away with 75ml for Tmax 400, but Tmax > 100 needs the recommended 100ml. With some tanks it is not possible > to use higher dilutions and still contain the 100ml per roll. This > is a problem with Jobo rotary processors because the tanks are on > their side and only hold about half as much chemistry compared when > they are used upright with hand agitation. The 4 roll tank takes > about 600ml, so it is only possible to use Xtol full strength or > develop only 3 rolls at 1:1 (300ml xtol: 300ml water). I have never had a problem diluting Xtol or JB9 (my own Xtol clone) as far as 1+4. Just lengthen the developing time acordingly. I think Kodak wants us to use more developer. Strange things begin to happen when you drop below 40mg dimezon-S/phenidone per liter at pH 8.2 but activity can be restored by adding some Kodalk or carbonate to raise the pH (grain too). > > 3.) Follow the time/ temperature and agitation recommendations > supplied by Kodak. Doing this, your negativse will be very printable > unless you are doing something wrong with your exposure or are using > the zone system. I use my Xtol clone developer with phenidone at what would amount to about a 1+3 for Xtol at 13.5-15 minutes. The resulting gamma for Tri-X is 0.50-0.55 and I routinely get 0.08-0.09 D at zone 1 which is almost 400 on the zone system. Neopan 1600 is something else though. Lots of good dense midtones and highlights but zones 1 and 2 are AWOL. JB