Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2005/10/31
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Lee, This is what Canon says about it: The EOS 20D focusing screen is optimized for superior brightness at moderate apertures from about f/3.5 and smaller, compared to conventional ground glass designs. This makes the viewfinder image brighter and easier to focus at those moderate apertures, but the trade-off is that it passes disproportionately more light to the metering system. When a Canon EF lens is mounted to an EOS camera, a variable exposure compensation factor (a program curve, not just a fixed compensation factor) for this phenomenon is fed through the system in order to provide correct metering for all apertures. However, when using a non-coupled manual diaphragm lens as you describe, no such communication takes place, so the responsibility for exposure compensation reverts to you. It's unnecessary to use an external meter. Instead, you can take a series of test shots at the working aperture(s) you plan to use, then analyze the test photos to determine the most desirable exposure compensation factor for each aperture. The 20D's auto exposure bracketing (AEB) function speeds up the process of taking the test photos, and you can use the Info palette in Photoshop to determine the most accurate exposure. If you can standardize on one particular aperture you plan to use (for maximum sharpness, desired depth of field, etc.), that will simplify the calibration process by eliminating the need for tests at other apertures. Thanks again to Bob Palmieri who forwarded me the information. Another issue is that light entering the camera through the eyepiece has a VERY strong effect on exposure metering if you are using slow speeds in AV mode (for example macro shots from a tripod) so use the little rubber cover thingy that's on your camera strap to cover it up. The metering methods AV and M function exactly as they should with Leica, Contax, Yashica, Tamron,Fujica,Pentax, Novoflex, Pentacon,Praktica, Beroflex, Sigma and a couple of Russian offerings in all modes - Well those are the lens makes I've used so far, and, if you're shooting RAW it doesn't really matter all that much either. It may be interesting to meter against a grey card using a hand meter, note the value and then transfer it to manual mode on the 20D. After taking a shot, keep the aperture as it is and switch to AV-mode and note the shutter speed, if you run this through for a few aperture/f-stops you should be able to work out a deviation function to allow you to correct for the exposure (not metering) shift. I hope this helps Douglas