Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2004/06/30
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]On 6/30/04 10:15 AM, "Feli di Giorgio" <feli@creocollective.com> wrote: > On Tue, 2004-06-29 at 20:00, Mark Rabiner wrote: >> On 6/29/04 4:11 PM, "Wade Heninger" <lists@heninger.org> wrote: >> >>> >>>> I've read that it is a very active developer. Thus developing times can >>>> be >>>> very short, making it easy to overdevelop negatives. >>> >>> Not as short as acufine, and never had issues. I tried all kinds of >>> experimenting with dilutions and times. All too contrasty. >>> >>> So I didn't continue because Xtol, FG7, Acufine all work great. >>> > > I just developed my first 3 rolls of TX400 in HC-110 dilution B (1:8) > for 4.5 minutes with low agitation. My usual developer is D76. > > Here are my initial observation. > > a) High contrast. Highlights are gone. The scans look like a b/w > newsprint. > > b) Grain is highly dissolved tot he point that the images look soft. > > c) The images "bloom". Everything looks like it was shot with a very > weak promist filter. > > Dilution B has a very short development time and you really have to > stick to the clock, because even an extra 10 seconds pouring the > developer in/out seems to make a difference. I am going to try some of > the higher dilutions and maybe even Ansel's "H" mixture. Hopefully this > will help control the contrast and dissolve less of the grain. It would > be nice to have a developer on hand with a very long shelf life. > > Feli > > > > IMO It can be a low contrast developer if you develop for a lot less time. There is no such thing as a high contrast developer unless you are using some x-ray developer with lye for an accelerator instead of carbonate or borax. Contrast is mainly a function of degree of development. People develop their film in paper developer for 2 minutes (Dektol) and get the right contrast for a quick and dirty prints. (in a hurry) Yes I'd go for the highest dilution you can. But I'd just start out with regular dilution B and get your time down. See how they print. If your contrast paper or filter is lower number than you'd like give your negs less time. THEN criticize tonality. You've got to print the neg before you can judge it's tonality. Don't play with temperature. Or dilution. Or agitation. Just get your time down first. Then print. Then decide. Mark Rabiner Photography Portland Oregon http://rabinergroup.com/