Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2001/03/13

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Subject: [Leica] cuba trip (LONG)
From: jeffrey leifer <jleifer@leifercap.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 11:24:28 -0800

brian,

I spent a glorious month in havana nov/dec, catching three int'l festivals:
art bienale, latin-american film festival and the amazing annual jazz
festival.Tom has given you an excellent overview all of which I can echo in
support. I had planned to travel the island but was overtaken with the
casualness of havana and their people. I rented an apartment and made some
close friends which ended up helping a lot since I don't speak spanish (but
I had many introductions from art folks back in the US).

You can shoot a tons of film if you are disciplined but I found myself too
intrigued with the people and daily life to go too crazy shooting. (I shot
25 rolls, mostly slides and high speed B&W). I agree with Tom that if you
are short on time, old havana is wonderful. Generally, though, I try to stay
away from tourist areas so I enjoyed renting a bike as well as a car to see
the whole city. Lonely Planet has a pretty good guide. Try to eat in the
Paladors (private homes); don't miss the full coppellia (sit down ice cream
extravaganza) experience; see the old castle on the malecon. I have a friend
at the Ludwig Foundation Museum who is curator of Photography (Ileana
Cepero) who is fluent in english and writes about conceptual photography(she
is just leaving fototeca, another museum so I don't have her new
number).Good jazz and salsa clubs (zorro y pueblo--jazz; casa de la
music--salsa). See the lobby of the riviera hotel, perfectly intact and
beatiful via the mafia 50's; bring home as much 7 year old cuban rum as you
can--it's really the best ($8.10 everywhere); if you love cigars, as i do,
check into that with your friends--that's a whole artform in and of itself.
If you need ANYTHING like medical remedies or just something not available
in the city, go down the road to the Commodoro Hotel where dollars can get
you whatever you need (like a small resort/city in itself). If you have a
chance, take a taxi to see the amazing art school EISA, designed by an
Italian in the 60's; visit the photo studios and see the work of emerging
cuban photographers....the encampment is like nothing else
architecturally...BTW, I hitchhiked everywhere, which is sort of like
flagging a cab, but they are gypsy cabs, and really had fun with it. Of
course tourist cabs are everywhere and dollar is king so you'll never be
stranded. You can wander the streets at 5 am alone and never run into
trouble; it's a very friendly place, notwithstanding the precautions taken
in any country....

I took an M6TTL, new 35, 50 and 90 (APO); really didn't need more than the
35; used the 90 in jazz clubs and the 50 is versatile if you only want to
drag one lens around, but honestly I could easily have left it at home. Take
vitamins, ballpoint pens, any over the counter medical supplies (like
aspirin) and donate them to families you stay with or to a local school or
the synagogue (best pharmacy on the island).....enjoy! (I hope to return
soon)...

jeff leifer
jleifer@leifercap.com