Re: [Leica] Help, Bubble in Vulcanite

[John Collier <jbcollier@home.com>]

I have not noticed any replies so here are some posts from the easily
searchable archives (http://mejac.palo-alto.ca.us/leica-users/)

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Subject: Re: Vulcanite repair
From: Bob Sperling <bowtie@sean.abest.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 16:39:15 -0500 (EST)
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At 11:58 AM 11/4/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Can anyone remember the name of the black substance used by dentists which
>is handy for repairing cracked vulcanite?
>Thanking all in advance.
>
>Hnery
>
>
Henry:  It is gutta percha.  I have also used a black wax, heating it with a
soldering iron.

Bob Sperling

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Subject: [Leica] Re: FW: Vulcanite repair
From: Ken Wilcox <wilcox@tir.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 11:34:00 -0500 (EST)
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Sherry Krauter patched my wife M3 this last summer. She did an excelent job.

kw

>Does anyone know a good place for vulcanite repair?  I had an M2
>covered a few years back by a fellow in Indiana, but have lost
>his address.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jack


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Ken Wilcox     

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Subject: Re: [Leica] VULCANITE MAINTENANCE
From: "Dan Post" <dpost@triad.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 16:30:09 -0700
References: <200005051537.LAA01164@sushi.toad.net>
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Vulcanite is pretty brittle to begin with. I still have several smoking
pipes with the Vulcanite stems, and they do oxidise after a while.
The material is pretty much an early form of plastic that is formed with a
rubber like gutta percha, and sulfer which is heated and molded, much as a
tyre is molded. I have, where the cover of my IIIa split due to being
shipped in the dead of Winter, and where it cracked from the cold, repaired
fairly well the seam. I found that the Vulcanite, while somewhat like a
thermoset plastic, does soften with heat and become more flexible. In my
case, where is split under the VF, and came loose, I heated it gently with a
hair dryer, and carefully swung the vulcanite out of the way, clean the
metal surface of loose material, and used contact cement on a Q-tip cotton
sqab to apply a thin layer of cement on both the body, and the Vulcanite.
I then warmed the Vulcanite again, until it became flexible, and re-applied
the vulcanite back to the camera, and pushed the edges together. I got it
almost perfectly together, and when I had it all done- I wrapped several
wide ruber bands around the body to apply pressure, and let it set
overnight.
I later filled in the crack with some of the black stick paint that Fargo
sells, rubbed it in well, and let it dry. The result is a nearly invisible
mend, cheaper than recovering, and after a couple of years- still sounds and
tight. I carry this as my 'Tote Camera' so it gets its share of use, with no
problems!
Now- I am not so much a purist- the 'sharkskin' of the IIIc feels pretty
much the same as the regular covering, and I really don't notice that the M6
is all that different from the other Leicas I have or had- I suppose if it
is so bad, that the 'collectible' value is ruined, but if you want it for a
display piece or user, I can see no reason not to recover. Good Luck!
I have seen some die-cut Leica body covers advertised on eBay- but have not
yet bid onone. They seem an ideal solution for someone wanting a nice
looking cover, easy to apply, and one that will probably last another 50-60
years!
Dan ( NASDAQ?, What NASDAQ? We don' need no steenking NASDAQ!) Post



> From: Duri Koenz <dkoenz@bluewin.ch>
> 
> Dear Leica friends
> there is a bubble in the vulcanite of my M4. I tried to make an
> injection with shoemakers glue. This didn't work at all. Seams to be
> greasy or something. Should I cut the vulcanite, clean it out and
> reglue? Who has experience and a good hint?
> Thanks
> Duri