Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/11/02
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]> But I crave practical, useable > information in these regards (the digital equivalent of xtol at > 1:2, 13min @ 68?, delta 100, etc). I shoot with film, I do not use a digital camera except for point and shoot. I prefer Tri-X at 800 developed in D-76 1:1 for 12.5 minutes at 75F, or Plus-X, again using D-76 1:1 (don't remember the developing time, but I think it's 9 minutes?). I scan them at 5080DPI, and adjust all my contrast and brightness (gamma curves) in the scanner software. I do not use PS to adjust anything, since it can lead to posterization (missing gray levels...which happens when you adjust an 8 bit image in an 8 bit space). My scanner works in a 16 bit space, and outputs in an 8 bit space. I then read the image into PhotoShop, rotate it so it's in the orientation I want, and use ImageSize, making sure to uncheck "Resample Image"... I adjust the width or height and don't pay any attention to the "resolution" unless it falls below 240 or so... I print using an Epson 1160 and 3000 using the PS Plug-in and quad tone inks from www.piezography.com. I typically print 13x19 from both my 35mm and 2 1/4" negatives, and the results are very very good. So, keep using your film, and favorite developers, get a good scanner (suggest the Polaroid SprintScan 4000)...