Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/06/19
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I state in the "instructions" that accompany the Rapidwinder (enclosed at the bottom of this e-mail) that I have never had a problem with loading using the Rapidwinder with or without the basket. Loading any M camera the key is to check that the film engaged in the sprocket-drive of the camera. The multiflange "tulip" is not strong enough to pull the film out of the cassette, particularly with some high-speed films where the felt-trap is squeezed tight. I always fold the end of the film when sticking it into the "tulip" and that ensures that it will catch on an edge of the "petals". What I have found is that some of the modern, thin-emulsion films have a very slippery surface and an exceedingly flexible base and that these films can create problems by not providing enough "stickiness" (Tech-Pan, Delta 100, Tmax). The older films have a base that will retain a crimp or fold and stay in the take-up. There is an added culprit here in the form of the spring that is located inside the "tulip" take-up spool. If this spring is to low in the take-up spool, it will push the film down and can push the film away from the catching part of the tulips petals. This is the one time when the plastic roller can help as it prevents the film from slipping off the sprockets and sliding out from the take-up spool. My rule is to always check that the film is secure on the sprockets, advance once with the back open to check that the film is moving, close the back and do one or two blind exposures whilst checking that the film-rewind crank turns. A simple trick for that is to put a white piece of tape on the folding crank of the rewind, or painting the flange of ½ the rewind crank red or white. This will then serve as a visual confirmation that the crank is indeed turning as it should. Tom A Below is a copy of my cover letter/instructions for my M6 Rapidwinder customers: "Dear xxx, Here is your Rapidwinder M6. To use it just load the camera as usual and put on the Rapidwinder. Do not push it all the way on, until you have lightly pulled on the film advance, either the lever at the bottom of the Rapidwinder or the regular one on the camera. You will feel when the drive pin catches the camera's drive and then you can push the Rapidwinder all the way on and lock it by turning the lock at the bottom of the Rapidwinder until the two dots are aligned. There is very little maintenance required of the Rapidwinder. Every 2-3 months or 150-200 rolls put a drop of oil down along the driveshaft (it will slowly drip down on the drive) and if you wish, put some oil on a cotton tip (Q-tip) and insert it in the slot at the bottom of the Rapidwinder and run it along the track. The Rapidwinder is built to take a lot of use and the housing is extremely strong. As with any mechanical device, I recommend that you use a Rapidwinder on one specific camera body and allow the body and the Rapidwinder to "wear" in. It usually takes 10-15 rolls of film to smooth out the combination body/Rapidwinder. I hope you will enjoy your Rapidwinder. I would certainly love to hear from you again with your opinion on it! With best regards, Tom Abrahamsson #203-1512 Yew Street, Vancouver, BC, V6K 3E4, Canada Tel: 604-731-0036 Fax: 604-731-0868 E-mail: TTAbrahams@aol.com www.rapidwinder.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - --------------------------- Instructions regarding the need to use the "Film Roller" (plastic wheel) which comes with your original baseplate: - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - ---------------- Date: 98-06-21 22:51:13 EDT From: TTAbrahams@aol.com To: leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us I have been using my own Rapidwinders with and without the plastic Roller and never had a problem. The trick is to ensure that the film is properly located on the sprockets of the drive and of course the small folded end of the film is stuck inside the "tulip" of the take up spool. I always found the plastic Roller a bother. It never slipped in over the "tulip" as you wanted, most of the time the spokes of it got stuck, or hit the tips of the "tulip" take up spool and required that you fiddled with it. Without the Roller, you just have to ensure that the film is located in the right position, on the sprockets, in the take up spool and push the Rapidwinder on and go shooting. I went and looked through my last 3 months of film shot and in approximately 250 rolls, I could see no difference between film Roller equipped Rapidwinders and non-Roller equipped Rapidwinders. Of course I would like to supply the Rapidwinder with the plastic Roller, but it would increase the cost of them by almost 10% and I have always been trying to keep the price of the Rapidwinder reasonable and I abhor having to increase the price/cost of it. It is a quick operation to remove the plastic Roller from the baseplate if you want to. The screw on the Rapidwinder has the same thread as the screw on the baseplate (the only reason that I had the Rapidwinder screw made was to eliminate marks on the baseplate screw, you can undo it once without marring it, and then lock in the Roller with the screw on the Rapidwinder and keep the screw on the baseplate looking pristine when you upgrade the camera years later). Tom A Tom Abrahamsson www.rapidwinder.com"