Re: [Leica] Exposure, darkroom, technique

[Henry Ambrose <digphoto@nashville.net>]

>Shoot Tri-X at its rated speed of 400 and adjust your exposure technique
>instead.  CN400 works well at ASA200 because that is the film's 
>characteristic
>independent of technique.  Your problem with TX is not how you rate it but 
>the
>fact you underexposed it for whatever reason.
>
>Ray
>
>Dan Honemann wrote:
>
>> Ray,
>>
>> Just to clarify: it was the Tri-X I shot that I had exposure problems with,
>> and that the guy at the lab said would be best when overexposed.  The CN
>> came out fine.
>>
>> I will try rating both at 200 (or, more conservatively, 320) next time to
>> see if that helps.  It does seem that the lattitude with these films is in
>> the direction of over- rather than under-exposed negatives.  I'm also going
>> to experiment with TMZ or Delta 3200 rated at 1600 or 800 to see if I have
>> better results there.  For outdoors, 200 will be ok, but most of my shooting
>> is low light and 200 probably won't get me to 1/30s or better.
>>
>> Dan
Some thoughts on film and processing:

One problem you might be experiencing is communication with your lab 
person. Do you know what chemistry they use? Do you have any choice in 
the times they use? If they are doing it by hand and giving you the 
chemistry and times you want THEN you can adjust your exposure to fit 
with that situation. Otherwise you are shooting in the dark (pardon the 
pun). If they are using a machine you may work with them to find a good 
combination for you. But you probably don't get to pick any developer you 
want. If the guy at the lab tells you that they get good results with 
TriX (or whatever) rated a certain way, start there and adjust to your 
liking.

I think that if you are using conventional B&W films you MAY NEED to 
process it yourself unless you are getting great custom service from your 
lab.

If you use C41 process films (color neg, CN400, XP2) then the process is 
standard and repeatable. If its a good lab, they will do their part THE 
SAME EVERY TIME. Its a machine/production/controlled process thing. Then 
you fit how you expose the film to get the desired result and depend on 
that same process each time. 

I suggest you try XP2 also while you are tasting flavors. It is my 
favorite in this genre! (320 is a good number here for most use) Also if 
full 400 speed is good for you, try Ilford Delta 400 @400. Again, talk to 
your lab guy to see if they have a suggestion. If you get good answers 
that work for you, you probably got a good lab.

E6 (color transparencies) is also a very defined process. It can be 
adjusted. usually you are better off shooting the right film for the job 
instead of pushing or pulling. It will save you money.

In any event, if you are depending on a lab for your processing, pick one 
that gives good work and stick with them.

As far  as technique goes, I suggest you always meter the same way. Find 
what works well for you and don't change without good reason. 

Testing: Do it for any new film you're gonna use. It will save you money 
and bad pictures.
When you test film, set it up in a controlled and repeatable way. Tripod, 
consistent light, reasonable full  range scene, etc. Then expose your 
frames with a label in the frame so you know how each frame was exposed.  
100, 125, 160, 200, 320, 400, whatever film speeds you want to try. I 
suggest 1/3 stop increments expressed as film speed. When you get the 
contact sheet back you can pick the one you like. Then shoot some more 
rated the same in the normal way you would use it. If you're happy then, 
your testing is over!

Henry Ambrose