Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/12/30
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]>>> In my experience Tri-X seems to last forever. I've used MUCH older stuff with no problem. Ken Wilcox <<< And, in our experience, it's not much subject to heat damage, either. Long ago I read a test report by a photographer who was worried about heat. He left some Tri-X, exposed and unexposed, in his trunk in the Nevada desert at the peak of summer for several weeks, along with a recording weather thermometer. Temps got up to 180 degrees F. Neither the exposed roll, when developed, or the unexposed roll, once shot and developed, showed any adverse effects. He stopped worrying about heat after that, and so did I. One of the very great advantages of Tri-X is its toughness. It is not very susceptible to age, not very susceptible to heat, prints fine even when showing high levels of fb+f (even chemical fog), and is not affected by long hold times. A "hold time" is the amount of time that elapses between exposure and development. If you want to see something interesting, shoot a roll of your favorite b&w film and develop it immediately--within the first hour. Keep an identically-shot test roll hanging around the house for a year. Develop it, than make comparison prints. Your eyebrows will probably go up! Most films show slight hold-time deterioration within the first six hours after exposure, and then stabilize for relatively long periods before beginning a gradual process of image deterioration. Tri-X is relatively immune to this--it looks virtually the same whether processed at six hours or at six months (although it does look slightly better when processed immediately). To name two films of which this this not true, try developing a roll of Agfa 400 or Kodak T-Max P3200 at one hour, and at one year. They look like entirely different films. The grain gets much larger and mealy, sharpness is much worse, and tonality suffers. It's so bad with P3200 that if I find on old, unprocessed roll, I don't even bother to process it. (P3200, more than any other film, should be purchased fresh and processed promptly for best results. Many photographers who have "tested" P3200 have come to WRONG conclusions because they're not even aware of what a "hold time is, and they've kept the film hanging around for months before using it and then wait weeks or months before processing it. Then they get on the internet and spout off about what they're "sure" it looks like. Bad test, big no-no.) This is a hidden reason why pros often get better-looking results than amateurs--they tend to use films closer to optimum emulsion ripeness, and then process immediately, no matter what film they are using. It helps. I'll say one thing. The more you know about film, the easier it is to love Tri-X. - --Mike J. / _PHOTO Techniques_ magazine