Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/12/08
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Please note that everything I'm about to say applies to black and white negative film only. I don't shoot transparencies but I realize that all the rules and opinions change for chromes. I am afraid that in my mind there is no substitute for experience, spending a lot of time shooting a lot of film under every lighting condition and then analyzing the results. Only in this way will one gain the confidence to shoot without a meter. However, another aid to meter-less shooting is to use a forgiving film which can give you a one or two stop latitude which can be easily corrected in printing...XP-2, HP5, Tri-X. Also, stock your dark-room with either a good multi-contrast paper or seek out graded papers. Finally, recognize that the image that counts for more than its technical characteristics and assess your pictures based upon the story they tell or their emotional impact. More than one member of thy LUG has heard me say that exposure and sharpness are vastly over-rated in the photographic process. Buzz Hausner - -----Original Message----- From: Hans-Peter.Lammerich@t-online.de [mailto:Hans-Peter.Lammerich@t-online.de] Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 2:45 PM To: leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us Subject: [Leica] Guestimating exposure? Hello, I always admired those guys who are confident in reliably estimating exposure without using a meter, at least with negative film. Moreover, I consider this ability as a precondition to actually enjoy using a M2, M3 or M4. Of course I looked at the little tables that come with most films or that are shown in older books on photography, but looking up tables is more annoying than using a handheld meter. Also, a have my fair share of experience in using the M6's coupled meter. As a result I am now quite confident in guestimating exposure indoor under artificial light and under the open sky. Apparently the architects of public buildings, department stores, offices, underground stations etc. follow certain engineering standards in lighting which usually result to something like a 1/60, f=1/2 with 400 ASA. Smaller offices with lower ceiling and bright lights. are rather in the 1/60, F=1/4 range. A living room or a pub may go down to 1/30 or 1/15 with f=1/1,4. Under open sky conditions I apply the "sunny 16" rule (1/500" with f=1/11, ASA 400). Depending on the clouds I may open the aperture by up to 4 stops. 1 or 2 hours after sunrise or until sunset, an additional correction by minus 1 or 2 stops seems to be necessary. But I have problems to estimate exposure in narrow, shady streets and for shadows in general. For a time I thought that a correction by minus 2 stops, in addition to the above, of course, would be the right approach, but to often this resulted in underexposure. Apparently, the indirect light depends to much on facade colour, height of buildings. I would therefore appreciate if I could share the experience of other LUGgers, particularly if there is someone who has a more systematic approach. Hans-Peter