Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/11/11
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]OOPS, correction to framelines for the M2-W s/be 24/35, 28/90, 50/75. retail - $1200, inc 3+2 Passport, (well hell they charge $300 for a new M6 circuit board). And it it helps to save more $$$, not eliminate the dumb winderrrrrr circuitry. Hell if you're going for the entry level model, you sure don't need a winder high on your M wishlist. But keep the little winder tooth cut-out so the ARW/M6 will still work, or even better, go back right to the real deal M2 style shaft. Sell it as a kit for $2000 with the resurrected last non-asph 35 'cron. DonJr hould approve - no plastic thingy in the frame counter, neither. best of function over toy-value, Alistair - -----Original Message----- From: Stewart, Alistair [mailto:AStewart@gigaweb.com] Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 7:17 PM To: 'leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us' Subject: RE: [Leica] caps Jonathon, First of all, apologies to several LUGers for an on-topic post. The best general purpose upgrade I made to my M6's was to convert them to M4-P's by removing the batteries. For street use you go crazy chasing the LED's, and spontaneity is gone. Plus, you only need to learn a few settings for a specific film and then think about the light your subject is in. e.g in summery Chicago, it's f16/f11 @ 1/500 in the sunlight, and 1/250 @ 5.6 in the shadows, (rated at 800 and souped in Acufine) maybe 1/2 stop more if the streets are like canyons, and super-shaded. Anticipation, as Warren Beatty's cast-off once said. Plus if one is in say a low-light situation, like a club, one just gets the readings for the subjects using a much less inaccurate spot meter. Two bodies, and set one for say the details in the fascinating bassist, and another for the sax guy, away you go. No flashing LED's to worry about. Plus, with the latitude of (say) tri-x, and the inaccuracy of the cloth shutter mechanism, chasing those LED's takes one into a false sense of accuracy, even if one has accepted the limitations of a semi-averaging reflected meter reading. The danger is that you think you got the correct exposure (but were actually defeated by a reflected reading and the mechanical shutter), and even worse, because of the delay that chasing the LED's induced in you, you missed Mister HCB's thing. Which is not to say that under other situations, uch as shooting certain assignments, that built in meter can provide some assistance. Tom A is close to right on. Let's have Big Red L come out with the M2-W. 24-90 framelines (24/35, 28/90, 50/90), and no meter. Or maybe I shoulda read the manual. You guys could all be correct, and I'm supposed to keep my lens cap on at all times. Maybe the LED's main purpose in life is to remind me of same :=) best of exposure estimations, Alistair - -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Borden [mailto:jborden@mediaone.net] Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 6:22 PM To: leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us Subject: Re: [Leica] caps get an M6 .... that way if you forget and leave the lens cap on, the little red lights in the viewfinder won't light up... I would have expected them to be green, for okay and shoot :-)) Jonathan Borden > UMMM, GRRR, PUHLEEEEEEEZE. > > Who ever USED a camera to take a picture with the lens cap on. First thing > that goes in the basement when I get a new(ish) lens is the front cap. > > Very difficult to take a good picture with one o' them things on the front > o' yer expensivocronilux. > > Uh-oh, do I hear the onset of a subsequent UV-filter thread starting? > > Or didn't I see these posts On the Leica USERS Group. > > Alistair