Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/10/12
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Sorry.....the only reason that I can think of to use TMax instead of Delta is availability of film. Nothing unusual is necessary, pick your developing temp, process at the correct length of time, agitate normally and you get beautiful negatives, time and time again....very simple. Bob << ed, Thanks so much for pointing out the obvious, you have a real gift! Just ran a batch of TMZ @ 3200 in Tmax with lots of agitation and it works like a charm, nice fat (relatively speaking) negatives :-)). This post is a real gem. Jonathan Borden > > > Hi Godfrey, > > Like wise myself at the beginning........just couldn't get it to work! But > then the light came on: "I read the instructions!" And unlike Frank > Sinatra, I stopped "Doing it my way!" And did it "their way"!!! Surprise! > What do we have here! Beauty negs and prints! Nice big 16 X 20's. > > "Why would KODAK spend thousands of dollars experimenting the > development > of this film, telling me "How it should be done" and then me not follow > their instructions? Then whine about it being a "no good film" So I > started developing exactly as in the instructions. > > The beginning of successful use of TMax: > > OK exposure: > > I rate it exactly what they call it: TMax "400" out doors and TMax "800" > indoors. Meter straight through the M6, R 7 or 8. Red lights come on > "PRESS BUTTON, TAKE PICTURE!":) Remember..."keep it simple!" It's a no > brainer with a Leica! > > Whether the TMax 400 is rated at 400 or 800, it is given exactly same time > and temps! > > Darkroom preparation: Lights on...developer poured in tank, 75 degrees. > Lights out, load stainless steel reels plunge reels into tank, lid on, > timer on, lights on! "AGITATE VIGOROUSLY!" > > "TEMPERATURE OF DEVELOPER" (1 dev: 4 water) 75 degrees for 6 minutes! > exactly like in the book! Same time and development for 400 or 800. The > reason it works best at higher temp is due to the viscosity of the liquid > developer...it's like syrup, hotter temp allows it to thin out and work > better over the emulsion. > > "AGITATION!": "Vigorously" is the operative word! Most of us learned > to "agitate gently," tap tank on table etc etc. Well folks that smoothie > system doesn't work with TMax....100 - 400 - 3200. > > Shake 'er a good one for the first 15 secs! yeah I know some are going to > say things like "hot areas around sprocket holes etc"...it doesn't happen > unless you go crazy. And at least 3 or 4 quick inversions every 30 secs > until time over. > > I don't use stop bath: Times up. In the dark....lid off... developer > dumped. Fixer "exactly same temperature" is poured to fill tank > quickly ... > lid on and then shake the hell out of the tank for 2 or 3 > minutes. Lid off, > check negs, back into fix to complete time. Total fix time...about 5 mins. > > All temps are maintained 75 degrees, washing as well. After 10 changes of > running water (tank fills dump water fill again) Hypo eliminator (1 oz) > "OK one quick gurgle" agitate well for 45 - 60 secs. dump! ........fill > tank running water...2-3 minutes...dump water refill and use wetting > agent...very carefully, only a few drops.... Agitate tank, dump and plunge > reel into clean water and out immediately....removes excess wetting agent. > > As each reel is removed for drying, hold reel tightly in hand and snap the > wrist action in downward motion to floor, removing excess water.. > Then hang > to dry. > > Of late, due to interest of Ilford film discussions on the LUG, I > have been > trying it....very interesting...have to try more before I get the "real > good feel for it" Simply because, TMax really works for me. :) > > Anyway, there is gang, one method for TMax films.....Don't forget, what > works for me may not be your cup of tea!! > > ted > > > > > > > > > Ted Grant > This is Our Work. The Legacy of Sir William Osler. > http://www.islandnet.com/~tedgrant > >>